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Skar İzlerine Medikal ve Dermokozmetik Çözümler - ya da multicosmetics

Medical and Dermocosmetic Solutions for Scars

Scars are fibrotic tissues with a structure different from normal skin that emerge during the repair process following skin tissue damage; they can also be defined as wound marks. They generally form after inflammatory processes such as trauma, surgical procedures, burns, or acne (1). Various medical and dermocosmetic solutions are available for scars. The concept of “medical” refers to treatment methods prescribed by health professionals or applied in clinical settings, with scientifically proven efficacy and safety (2). In contrast, the term “dermocosmetic” defines products where pharmaceutical and cosmetic ingredients merge to support skin health and improve aesthetic appearance (3).

In recent years, a notable market growth has been observed globally in the field of scar and wound treatment. In particular, increasing aesthetic awareness, the influence of social media, and the strengthening of personal care culture have accelerated consumer interest in both medical and dermocosmetic solutions (4). Additionally, trends like “clean beauty” and “science-backed skincare” lead consumers toward reliable, clinically tested products with sustainable ingredients (5).

Scar Types and Their Impact on Treatment

Scars are primarily classified into three types: atrophic, hypertrophic, and keloid. Treatment methods vary depending on these different types (6).

Differences Between Atrophic, Hypertrophic, and Keloid Scars

Atrophic scars usually form after acne or chickenpox and exhibit a sunken appearance due to collagen loss; dermocosmetic approaches and skin-renewing products can be more effective for these types (7). Hypertrophic scars, on the other hand, become prominent with thick fibrotic tissues without exceeding the boundaries of the wound line and generally respond well to silicone-based scar creams or medical laser treatments (8). Keloids are lesions that grow beyond the wound boundaries with aggressive fibroblast activity and frequently require intralesional corticosteroid injections or combined medical scar treatment (9).

Treatment Plan According to Scar Depth and Skin Type

Success in scar treatment depends on creating a personalized plan that considers the depth and spread of the lesion, as well as the individual's skin type (10). While superficial and epidermal-level scars generally respond well to treatment with dermocosmetic scar products, regenerative creams, and topical agents, medical scar treatments such as fractional laser, microneedling, or intralesional injections are preferred for deeper dermal or subdermal scars. The treatment plan should be determined through a multidisciplinary approach, taking into account scar morphology, skin sensitivity, and patient expectations (11).

Medical Treatment Methods

Medical treatment methods are primarily diversified as laser therapy, microneedling, PRP applications, and surgical revision.

Laser Therapy, Microneedling, and PRP Applications

Laser therapy is one of the most effective medical methods used to reduce excessive collagen accumulation in scar tissue and reshape the skin surface. Fractional carbon dioxide (CO₂) and Erbium:YAG lasers stimulate the renewal process in the skin by creating controlled microthermal damage, providing significant improvement, especially in hypertrophic and atrophic scars (12). The microneedling method increases collagen and elastin production by opening minimally invasive microchannels in the epidermis; compared to laser therapy, the healing time is shorter and the risk of side effects is lower. PRP (Platelet-Rich Plasma) applications involve injecting concentrated plasma obtained from the patient's own blood under the skin to activate growth factors, supporting fibroblast activity in scar healing. These three methods show high success rates in reducing the appearance of scars when applied alone or in combined protocols (13).

Surgical Interventions and Post-Operative Care

Surgical interventions are advanced treatment methods applied to deep or wide scar tissues to restore aesthetic appearance and functional movement. Techniques such as excision, Z-plasty, or tissue expansion are used to remove scar tissue and reshape the surrounding skin (9). However, because surgical treatment creates a new wound line, post-operative care is of critical importance; silicone-based dressings, sunscreens, and regular use of scar cream reduce the risk of recurrence and support the healing process (8).

The Importance of Dermatological Supervision

Dermatological supervision in scar treatment is of great importance for accurate diagnosis, appropriate treatment selection, and the prevention of potential complications (2). Products or procedures applied to scars without professional evaluation can lead to undesirable results (6). Regular check-ups ensure that the response to treatment is monitored and, if necessary, medical and dermocosmetic approaches are applied together.

Scar Care with Dermocosmetic Products

Scar care with dermocosmetic products is an approach that supports the wound healing process, strengthens the skin barrier, and improves aesthetic appearance as a complement to medical treatments.

Scar Creams, Silicone-Based Gels, and Skin-Renewing Serums

Scar creams and silicone-based gels are among the most recommended dermocosmetic agents that regulate collagen synthesis by maintaining moisture balance during the proliferative stage of wound healing (14). The silicone layer reduces transepidermal water loss and balances fibroblast activity in the scar tissue, softening the appearance of the mark. Additionally, skin-renewing serums—especially formulations containing peptides, retinoids, Vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid—accelerate epidermal renewal, reduce pigment irregularities, and increase the scar's harmony with surrounding tissue (15). With regular use, these products provide visible improvement in both aesthetic appearance and tissue quality (4).

Formulas Containing Retinol, Vitamin C, and Peptides

Retinol regulates the irregular collagen distribution in scar tissue by accelerating cell renewal. Vitamin C neutralizes free radicals with its antioxidant effect and reduces color differences around the scar by suppressing melanin synthesis (16). Peptide complexes support the formation of new, smoother connective tissue by increasing fibroblast activation (17). The combination of these active ingredients can significantly improve scar appearance with long-term use.

Importance of Regular Use and Sun Protection

Regular product use and sun protection are two fundamental factors that directly affect treatment success in scar care. Sunlight, especially in the UVB spectrum, can cause hyperpigmentation in the scar area by increasing melanin production (18). Therefore, regular use of sunscreens with SPF 30 or higher supports the effect of dermocosmetic scar products and prevents color inequality (10). Furthermore, it is critical for active ingredients to remain on the skin for a sufficient period to regulate collagen synthesis and sustain structural improvement (11).

Differences Between Medical and Dermocosmetic Solutions

The fundamental difference between medical and dermocosmetic solutions lies in the depth of intervention, duration of effect, and application method; these two approaches often yield more balanced results when used together (18).

Level of Intervention and Duration of Effect

Medical treatments act on deeper layers of the skin, directly regulating fibroblast activity and can therefore provide lasting results (10). In contrast, dermocosmetic products soften the appearance over time by repairing at the epidermis level; the duration of effect depends on the frequency of regular use (16). Generally, medical interventions give fast results within a few sessions, while dermocosmetic scar products offer supportive care in the long run (8).

Professional Application vs. Home Care

Professional applications offer high efficacy but are more intensive in terms of the healing process and cost. Home care dermocosmetic products, such as silicone-based gels and serums containing retinol and peptides, provide slower but safer progress (15).

Which One to Choose in Which Situation?

The type and depth of the scar, as well as the skin structure, are decisive factors in treatment choice. While dermocosmetic products are usually sufficient for superficial and newly formed marks, medical intervention is required for thick or retractile (contracted) scars (18). Skin color, healing speed, and patient expectations also influence the treatment plan (10). In most cases, dermatologists recommend a combined approach (a protocol starting with medical treatment and sustained with dermocosmetic products) as the most efficient solution (8).

Examples from YA DA Cosmetic Products

YA DA Multicosmetics provides effective care support for scars, as it does for most skin problems, with its scientifically rich products.

Examples of Products with Dermocosmetic Ingredients

From the Remedium series by YA DA Multicosmetics, the purifying cleansing foam, moisturizing and repair-supporting night ointment, skin-renewing body lotion, and SOS care cream (which helps alleviate irritation caused by dryness) are highly effective for scars and scar marks.

Usage Scenarios: New Scars, Old Acne Marks, Surgical Scars

For new scars, the most effective product is the Remedium SOS Repairing Care Cream. Care can be supported by washing with the Remedium Repairing Cleansing Foam. For crusty or cracked scars, Remedium Night Ointment should be preferred. For old acne marks, results can be achieved in a short time by applying Remedium Night Ointment in a thicker layer than normal skin. If there is hyperpigmentation in the mark, additional use of Viniferine Tonic and Cream is appropriate.

Recommendations for Combining Products

The best combination for newly formed scar marks consists of the SOS Repairing Care Cream and the Repairing Cleansing Foam. After some time has passed, Night Ointment can be added to this combination. For darkening problems in marks, products from the Viniferine series can be included in the routine; they will provide a supportive effect during the process.

Scientific Data and Safety

The reliability of products used in scar treatment should be evaluated not only by their clinical efficacy but also by the scientific data supporting them (19). Today, it has become mandatory to check dermocosmetic products for ingredient safety and prepare supporting documentation before they hit the market (20).

Importance of Dermatological Tests

Dermatological tests are scientific safety evaluations used to determine whether a product causes irritation, sensitivity, or allergies when in contact with the skin (19). These tests are of great importance, especially for products like scar creams and skin-renewing serums, because the skin barrier is weakened in damaged tissue (20).

Ingredient Safety, Allergy Tests, and Evidence of Efficacy

For a dermocosmetic product to be considered reliable, a "clean" ingredient list is not enough; allergy tests and evidence of efficacy must also be provided (18). Clinical studies have shown that most silicone-based formulas and antioxidant-rich serums exhibit high tolerability (20). However, caution is advised for long-term use of products containing potential irritants such as parabens, fragrances, or alcohol.

Label Reading Guide

Reading the label correctly when choosing a scar product is critical for both safety and efficacy (21). Phrases like “Dermatologically tested,” “hypoallergenic,” or “non-comedogenic” indicate that the product meets specific clinical criteria (22). Furthermore, since ingredients listed at the beginning of the list usually make up the bulk of the formula, it gives an idea of the ratio of actives such as niacinamide or Vitamin C.

Expert Advice and User Recommendations

Success in scar treatment is achieved not only by choosing the right product but also by considering individual skin characteristics. Since every individual's skin type, wound healing speed, and sensitivity differ, personalizing the treatment plan is of great importance. Recommendations from expert dermatologists prevent the use of the wrong products while making the treatment process safe and effective.

Identifying the Solution Suitable for Skin Type

Every skin type reacts differently to treatment; therefore, identifying personal characteristics is the first step in scar care. For oily or acne-prone skin, non-comedogenic formulas that do not clog pores are preferred; for dry and sensitive skin, products that strengthen the moisture barrier are more suitable (18). To find the right products for sensitive skin, be sure to read our guide titled Atopic Skin and the Right Approach. Skin undertone, sebum balance, and sensitivity level directly affect both the duration and effectiveness of the treatment.

Dermatologist Opinion Before Starting Treatment

Getting a professional opinion from a dermatologist before starting scar treatment is critical to avoiding incorrect product selection and potential allergic reactions. The expert determines the appropriate medical or dermocosmetic method based on the type and depth of the scar and the skin structure. This shortens the treatment period and prevents unnecessary product overloading.

The Importance of Patience, Consistency, and Regular Care

Scar treatment is a long-term process; therefore, patience and consistency are essential elements for success. Clinical data shows that the efficacy of silicone-based gels and regenerative serums usually becomes apparent after several weeks (18). Regular application, sun protection, and moisturizing habits support the treatment in yielding lasting results (20).

REFERENCES 1) Gauglitz, G. G., et al. (2011). Hypertrophic scarring and keloids: Pathomechanisms and current and emerging treatment strategies. Molecular Medicine, 17(1–2), 113–125. 2) Lupo, M. P., & Cole, A. L. (2007). Cosmeceutical peptides. Dermatologic Therapy, 20(5), 343–349. 3) Dreno, B., et al. (2019). Safety and efficacy of dermocosmetics in acne management. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 33(S6), 34–40. 4) Grand View Research. (2024). Scar treatment market size, share & trends analysis report by product, by application, by end-use, and segment forecasts, 2024–2030. 5) Euromonitor International. (2023). Beauty and personal care: Global industry overview. 6) Atiyeh, B. S., et al. (2005). Hypertrophic scars and keloids: Update and review of the literature. Aesthetic Plastic Surgery, 29(6), 643–652. 7) Jacob, C. I., et al. (2001). Acne scarring: A classification system and review of treatment options. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 45(1), 109–117. 8) Mustoe, T. A., et al. (2002). International clinical recommendations on scar management. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, 110(2), 560–571. 9) Ogawa, R. (2017). Keloid and hypertrophic scars are the result of chronic inflammation in the reticular dermis. International Journal of Molecular Sciences, 18(3), 606. 10) Gold, M. H. (2019). Scars: An overview of assessment, classification, and treatment for clinical practice. Dermatology and Therapy, 9(3), 333–346. 11) Manuskiatti, W., & Fitzpatrick, R. E. (2002). Treatment response of keloidal and hypertrophic sternotomy scars: Comparison among intralesional corticosteroid, 585-nm flashlamp-pumped pulsed-dye laser, and combined treatment. Archives of Dermatology, 138(9), 1149–1155. 12) Waibel, J. S., & Beer, K. (2011). Ablative fractional laser resurfacing for the treatment of a traumatic scar. Lasers in Surgery and Medicine, 43(4), 265–269. 13) Aust, M. C., et al. (2010). Percutaneous collagen induction therapy: An alternative treatment for burn scars. Burns, 36(6), 836–843. 14) O’Brien, L., & Pandit, A. (2006). Silicon gel sheeting for preventing and treating hypertrophic and keloid scars. Cochrane Database of Systematic Reviews, (1), CD003826. 15) Zasada, M., et al. (2020). Topical treatments improving skin regeneration. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology, 37(5), 661–667. 16) Nusgens, B. V., et al. (2001). Influence of topical vitamin C on dermal collagen synthesis. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 116(6), 853–859. 17) Katayama, K., et al. (1993). New class of growth factors for fibroblasts: TGF-β–induced peptides. Journal of Biological Chemistry, 268(24), 18033–18038. 18) Berman, B., & Maderal, A. (2017). Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 10, 135–146. 19) Draelos, Z. D. (2019). The science behind skin care: Moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(4), 1029–1035. 20) Draelos, Z. D. (2019). The science behind skin care: Moisturizers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(4), 1029–1035. 21) Draelos, Z. D. (2019). Consumer interpretation of cosmetic labeling. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 18(4), 1023–1028. 22) Elsner, P., & Maibach, H. I. (2017). Cosmetics and Dermatologic Problems and Solutions. CRC Press.

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Retinol nedir? Doğru cilt bariyeri onarımı - ya da multicosmetics

What is Retinol? Proper Skin Barrier Repair

A derivative of Vitamin A (retinoid), Retinol is one of the most effective topical agents in skincare for reducing the signs of photoaging (sun-induced aging) and chronological aging (1). It is a lipophilic molecule that easily penetrates the epidermis. It has the capacity to significantly improve the appearance of wrinkles and fine lines by accelerating the renewal cycle of skin cells and stimulating collagen production in the dermis (2). However, when using powerful active ingredients like Retinol, maintaining the health of the stratum corneum—the outermost layer of the epidermis—is of critical importance (3). The skin barrier is a fundamental defense mechanism that keeps moisture in by regulating transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and provides protection against environmental factors (3). Side effects such as redness and peeling, commonly seen at the beginning of retinol application, may indicate a temporary disruption of this barrier function (3,4). Therefore, the correct and safe use of retinol is vital for both increasing its effectiveness and protecting the skin barrier. For safe use, steps such as starting with low concentrations, prioritizing nighttime use, supporting with moisturizers, and always using sunscreen should be followed. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS There are certain questions that come to everyone's mind regarding the use of retinol. Let's take a look at these questions together. Which skin concerns is retinol suitable for? 1) Acne vulgaris (adolescent / adult acne) and comedones Acne vulgaris is a common skin problem that frequently affects adolescents and young adults. Its primary symptoms include the excessive accumulation of skin cells in hair follicles (follicular dyskeratosis), increased sebum (oil) production, and inflammation triggered by the Cutibacterium (formerly Propionibacterium) acnes bacteria living inside the hair follicle (5). Retinoids derived from Vitamin A are considered one of the fundamental treatment options for acne because they directly impact these root causes (5). Retinoids help regulate the main mechanisms involved in the onset of acne, specifically follicular dyskeratosis, which refers to the accumulation of dead cells that clog pores (5). 2) Photo-aging / Signs of natural aging (fine lines, wrinkles, irregular skin texture, pigment irregularities) There are studies showing that retinol both accelerates the epidermal cell cycle and can increase collagen production in the dermis, thereby reducing wrinkles associated with sun damage (6). In one study, improvement in fine wrinkles was observed after 24 weeks of retinol use (7). 3) Pigmentation (spots), post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) Topical retinoids have been shown to reduce the transfer of melanosomes, which carry pigment to skin cells, thereby helping to improve the appearance of spots. One study reported that formulations containing retinol at concentrations of 0.3% and 0.5% provided significant improvement in dark pigmented areas (8). However, more intense side effects were observed at the 0.5% retinol concentration compared to 0.3% (8). Furthermore, both concentrations yielded similar results after 12 weeks (8). The lower concentration provided better results relative to the high concentration due to tolerability (8). 4) Improving skin texture (smoothness, pore appearance, evening skin tone) Retinol's support of cell renewal allows the upper layers of the epidermis to shed faster, ultimately contributing to a smoother skin appearance (1). Is it safe to use retinol on sensitive skin? The term “sensitive skin” generally refers to skin with a weak barrier and high reactivity (prone to redness, stinging, or burning). Applying active ingredients to such skin types can result in irritation more easily. Retinol can be used safely on sensitive skin, but this safety is not as risk-free as it is for "normal" skin. The risk of irritation can be significantly reduced with the appropriate concentration, slow adaptation, and supportive care (9). How often should retinol be applied? While there is no definitive "one size fits all" rule for the frequency of topical retinol use, there are accepted recommendations to maximize effectiveness while minimizing the risk of irritation. According to a review article, topical retinoids should be applied in a thin layer to clean, dry skin at night. In the initial stage, one should start with a lower concentration and low frequency of use; if the skin adapts, daily use can be initiated (10). According to clinical guidelines, use is generally recommended every two or three nights for the first few weeks; if the skin tolerates it well, the frequency is increased (11). However, the frequency of use rule is still not the same for everyone. CORRECT USE AND CONCENTRATION The correct use and concentration of any ingredient applied to the skin are of great importance. Active ingredients like Retinol require even more careful application. Starting with low concentration A study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2024) stated that 0.1% stabilized retinol provided significant improvement in photo-aging signs, but irritation was mild and temporary (12). Researchers emphasized that this low concentration is the most suitable starting point for both efficacy and tolerance (12). Starting retinol at a low concentration reduces irritation by protecting the skin barrier, increases long-term tolerance, and ensures that the effectiveness is sustainable. This gradual transition, recommended by dermatology experts, is the safest and most science-based approach to retinol use. Night routine and application methods Because retinol can easily degrade with light and oxygen and temporarily makes the skin more sensitive to UV rays, it is recommended to be used only at night (12). Accordingly, the application plan could be as follows: For new users or sensitive skin, start with a low-concentration application one night per week. If there are no tolerance issues such as redness, burning, or flaking, increase to 2–3 nights per week. If the skin tolerates it completely, you can switch to every-night use. However, for sensitive skin, those prone to irritation, or those applying intense exfoliation/peeling, usage can be maintained every second night or every few nights instead of every night. In all cases, it is important not to neglect the use of moisturizer after application and broad-spectrum sunscreen during the day. SUPPORTIVE CARE TO PROTECT THE SKIN BARRIER Combination with moisturizing and soothing products Retinol is a powerful active ingredient that accelerates skin renewal, but due to this property, it can cause temporary dryness, peeling, and sensitivity in the skin barrier. For this reason, it is strictly recommended to be used alongside moisturizing and soothing ingredients. This combination maintains efficacy while increasing skin tolerance. Using moisturizers containing supportive ingredients like ceramides, hyaluronic acid, and niacinamide, or soothing agents (such as Remedium Night Ointment) in the post-retinol routine, allows for safer benefit from the active ingredient by reducing potential side effects. Use of sunscreen It is strongly recommended that individuals using retinol use a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 in their daytime routines. A study published in the Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology showed that regular sunscreen use during retinoid treatment reduces the risk of photo-damage and supports the anti-aging effects of retinol (13). If you are going outdoors the day after using retinol, sunscreen use is essential for sensitized skin care. USAGE RECOMMENDATIONS BY AGE AND SKIN TYPE Sensitive / Atopic Skin Great care should be taken when using retinol on sensitive or atopic skin types, and retinol should not be preferred if not necessary. These skin types generally have a weakened skin barrier and increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) (4). According to a review in Dermatologic Therapy (2021), low-concentration (0.1–0.3%) and encapsulated retinol forms should be preferred for these skin types; additionally, it is recommended that the formulation includes barrier-supporting components such as ceramides, panthenol, and niacinamide (4). Applying moisturizer before and after retinol increases tolerance by reducing the risk of irritation. Normal to Oily, Acne-Prone Skin With its comedolytic and sebum-balancing properties, retinol is one of the effective topical agents for acne-prone skin. On oily skin, retinol reduces the appearance of pores and smooths skin texture. These skin types are generally more resilient to retinol; however, the frequency of use should be limited to 2–3 times a week for the first 2–3 weeks, after which retinol can become a permanent part of the nightly skincare routine. Seasonal Needs and Skin Barrier Support Retinol use should also be adjusted seasonally. In winter months, since low humidity and wind can weaken the skin barrier, richer moisturizers should be preferred. In summer months, the use of SPF 50+ sunscreen is necessary; if needed, the frequency of retinol can be reduced to lower the risk of irritation and photosensitivity (13). APPROPRIATE CHOICES FROM “YA DA” PRODUCTS There are many ingredients that can be used before switching to retinol in skincare. Since retinol is a strong active ingredient, it has a high probability of creating sensitivity. Resveratrol, which strengthens the skin barrier and delays aging, can be preferred as a safer alternative. The patented ε-Viniferin in the YA DA Viniferine series is a phenol belonging to the stilbenoid family. It is a resveratrol dimer. It helps reduce the appearance of dark spots and even out skin tone. Examples of retinol products, usage scenarios, and recommendations A comprehensive study of products shows that many retinol-containing items are supported by the addition of other ingredients. A published review also found that topical formulations with retinoids utilize improved technologies and delivery systems to reduce irritation (4). Findings show that the following methods can be used to reduce irritation: developing drug delivery systems in the formulation, encapsulating retinoids, converting retinoids into nanoparticles, creating complexes (e.g., with cyclodextrin) and binding retinoids to carriers (e.g., polymers, NLC, SLN), adding anti-irritant components to formulations, and improving the skin barrier and hydration (e.g., combinations of glucosamine, trehalose, ectoin, sucralfate, omega-9, and 4-t-butylcyclohexanol, or adding ethanolic bark extract of Alstonia scholaris R. Br) (4). In summary, choosing products in these forms can provide a more comfortable user experience. EXPERT & USER ADVICE Using retinol is a process that must be started carefully and consciously, as it is an active ingredient with high skin-regenerating power. Since every individual's skin type, tolerance, and age-related needs differ, needs-based selection is important. Starting with a patch test and small trials In the initial stage, performing a patch test on a small area such as the inner wrist, behind the ear, or the jawline for 24–48 hours helps prevent potential allergic reactions (14). Making a needs-based choice When choosing retinol products, skin type, age, previous use of active ingredients, and specific skin concerns (e.g., acne, wrinkles, spots) should be considered. While lightweight serum formulas are preferred for oily and acne-prone skin, moisturizer-based retinol formulations containing niacinamide or ceramides are recommended for dry or sensitive skin (4,15). Choosing a formula suitable for the skin type increases treatment compliance and success (4,15). Dermatologist opinion and regular follow-up Retinol and its derivatives (retinoids) are actives that show individual differences in tolerance as much as they are highly effective. For this reason, it is of great importance to start under the supervision of a dermatologist and to determine the concentration and frequency of use personally. Expert control ensures early detection of unwanted effects such as irritation, skin peeling, or photosensitivity. Regular dermatological follow-up both increases product effectiveness and helps protect the skin barrier. CONCLUSION Retinol is a dermatologically accepted active ingredient with effects that support cell renewal, increase collagen synthesis, and improve skin texture. However, this powerful effect provides safe and efficient results only when supported by the correct concentration, regular use, and product selection suitable for the skin type. Proceeding with a low dose initially, combining with moisturizing and soothing ingredients, and not neglecting the use of sunscreen increases the long-term benefits of retinol by reducing its irritation potential. Creating a personalized usage plan under the guidance of a dermatologist, taking into account skin type, age, and individual tolerance differences, is the safest way to gain maximum benefit from both the anti-aging and skin-renewing effects of retinol. REFERENCES 1) Zasada M, Budzisz E. Retinoids: active molecules influencing skin structure formation in cosmetic and dermatological treatments. Postepy Dermatol Alergol. 2019 Aug;36(4):392-397. doi: 10.5114/ada.2019.87443. 2) Sorg, O., Antille, C., Kaya, G. and Saurat, J.-H. (2006), Retinoids in cosmeceuticals. Dermatologic Therapy, 19: 289-296. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1529-8019.2006.00086.x 3) Elias, Peter. (2007). Elias PMThe skin barrier as an innate immune element. Sem Immunopath 29:3-14. Seminars in immunopathology. 29. 3-14. 10.1007/s00281-007-0060-9. 4) Narsa AC, Suhandi C, Afidika J, Ghaliya S, Elamin KM, Wathoni N. A Comprehensive Review of the Strategies to Reduce Retinoid-Induced Skin Irritation in Topical Formulation. Dermatol Res Pract. 2024 Aug 17;2024:5551774. doi: 10.1155/2024/5551774. 5) Chien A. Retinoids in Acne Management: Review of Current Understanding, Future Considerations, and Focus on Topical Treatments. J Drugs Dermatol. 2018 Dec 1;17(12):s51-55. 6) Mukherjee S, Date A, Patravale V, Korting HC, Roeder A, Weindl G. Retinoids in the treatment of skin aging: an overview of clinical efficacy and safety. Clin Interv Aging. 2006;1(4):327-48. doi: 10.2147/ciia.2006.1.4.327. 7) Kafi R, Kwak HSR, Schumacher WE, et al. Improvement of Naturally Aged Skin With Vitamin A (Retinol). Arch Dermatol. 2007;143(5):606–612. doi:10.1001/archderm.143.5.606 8) Zasada M, Budzisz E, Erkiert-Polguj A. A Clinical Anti-Ageing Comparative Study of 0.3 and 0.5% Retinol Serums: A Clinically Controlled Trial. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2020;33(2):102-116. doi: 10.1159/000508168. 9) Kim BH. Safety Evaluation and Anti-wrinkle Effects of Retinoids on Skin. Toxicol Res. 2010 Mar;26(1):61-6. doi: 10.5487/TR.2010.26.1.061. 10) Chng WQ, Samuel M, Naidoo K, Jaffar H, Khor IW, Yiong Huak C, Watson REB, De Mozzi P, Tam WWS, Camargo CP, Leong WMS. Topical treatments and skin‐resurfacing techniques for skin ageing. Cochrane Database Syst Rev. 2021 Aug 19;2021(8):CD014391. doi: 10.1002/14651858.CD014391. 11) https://britishcosmderm.com/resource/topical-retinoids 12) Farris P, Berson D, Bhatia N, Goldberg D, Lain E, Mariwalla K, Zeichner J, Miller D, McGuire T, Kizoulis M. Efficacy and Tolerability of Topical 0.1% Stabilized Bioactive Retinol for Photoaging: A Vehicle-Controlled Integrated Analysis. J Drugs Dermatol. 2024 Apr 1;23(4):209-215. doi: 10.36849/JDD.8124. 13) Skin benefits of a retinol-containing daily moisturizer with photostable SPF-30 Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, Volume 58, Issue 2, AB23 14) Leyden, James & Grove, Gary & Zerweck, Charles. (2004). Facial tolerability of topical retinoid therapy. Journal of drugs in dermatology : JDD. 3. 641-51. 15) Milosheska D, Roškar R. Use of Retinoids in Topical Antiaging Treatments: A Focused Review of Clinical Evidence for Conventional and Nanoformulations. Adv Ther. 2022 Dec;39(12):5351-5375. doi: 10.1007/s12325-022-02319-7.

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Kolajen Takviyeleri Gerçekten İşe Yarıyor mu? - ya da multicosmetics

Do Collagen Supplements Actually Work?

As the most abundant protein in our bodies, collagen plays a vital role in various tissues—from our skin and bones to our joints and muscles. As we age, the production of this precious protein decreases, which can lead to issues such as wrinkles, joint pain, and connective tissue problems. Collagen supplements have become increasingly popular in recent years to slow down this process and alleviate signs of aging. Although it is naturally found in foods like meat, fish, bone broth, egg whites, dairy, and chicken skin, interest in supplements is growing thanks to the high bioavailability of collagen peptide forms (2). So, do these supplements actually work? Which form is most effective? You can discover everything you need to know about collagen peptides in this blog post. 1. What is Collagen and What is Its Role in the Body? Collagen maintains the body’s structural integrity and provides strength and flexibility to tissues. It is of great importance not only for aesthetic appearance but also for the healthy functioning of many physiological processes. To better understand the effects of collagen on health, you can find more details below regarding what it is and its duties in the body. What is collagen? Collagen is the most abundant structural protein in the human body and is one of the fundamental building blocks of skin, bone, muscle, tendon, and connective tissues (1). Its most significant benefit is supporting the strength of connective tissues and the mechanical properties of the skin, such as elasticity (3). Particularly in tendons, it makes up approximately 65-80% of the dry weight, determining the durability of these structures. It also plays a critical role in protecting tendon health and preventing muscle injuries by providing resistance against tensile forces (4,5,6). While a total of 28 different types of collagen have been identified to date, Types I, II, III, IV, and V are the most common and most researched in the body (22). Does collagen production decrease with age? Collagen production in the body begins to decrease naturally with age. This process usually starts gradually after the age of 25 and becomes more noticeable in the 30s. From the age of 40, the decline in collagen synthesis reaches significant levels (8). This drop in production is not only age-dependent; environmental factors such as excessive exposure to sunlight (especially UV rays), smoking, high sugar consumption, and chronic stress can also accelerate collagen breakdown (9). This reduction sets the stage for many age-related health issues, including skin wrinkles and spotting, joint stiffness, and the loss of elasticity in connective tissues (1). 2. What Do Collagen Supplements Promise? The most prominent claims regarding collagen supplements usually relate to skin health. However, positive effects on the joint and muscle systems are also frequently mentioned. Let’s take a closer look at these promises. Claims regarding skin health Collagen is the primary structural protein that ensures skin elasticity and firmness; it essentially acts as the skin's "scaffolding." As we age, collagen synthesis decreases, leading to skin weakening, loss of elasticity, and increased vulnerability to external factors. The most commonly used types for skin health are Type I and Type III collagen. Type I collagen stands out for its effects on firming the skin, reducing wrinkles, preventing hair loss, and strengthening nails (10). Type III collagen provides elasticity to the skin and supports the integrity of connective tissues and vascular structures. It is generally found alongside Type I, and when used together, they support a healthier, firmer, and more elastic skin appearance, often referred to as the "youth effect" (20). Effects on joint and muscle health Scientific studies have shown that Type II collagen supplementation can reduce pain in joint diseases like osteoarthritis and protect cartilage structure. It has also been observed to increase joint comfort in athletes and physically active individuals. In terms of muscle health, when used in conjunction with resistance training, it can help increase muscle mass and contribute to the repair of muscle damage after exercise. While collagen supplements support the body's own collagen production, they also contribute to muscle protein synthesis through the amino acids they contain (18,19). 3. What Does Scientific Research Say? The growing interest in collagen supplements has significantly increased the number of scientific studies conducted in this field. Let's examine the findings supported by clinical research and the latest data on which collagen form is more effective. Effects supported by clinical studies While scientific research offers some positive findings about collagen, results should be evaluated carefully. For example, a meta-analysis covering 26 randomized controlled trials found significant improvements in skin hydration and elasticity in individuals taking hydrolyzed collagen supplements. Similarly, individuals who were administered collagen supplements for 90 days showed a reduction in wrinkles and an increase in skin elasticity and moisture (20). However, a systematic review and meta-analysis published by Myung and Park (2025) in The American Journal of Medicine offers a different perspective. In this study, which evaluated 23 randomized controlled trials, it was reported that collagen supplements generally had positive effects on skin health. However, notably, none of these effects were confirmed in high-quality studies that were not industry-funded. Significant benefits were only reported in sponsored and lower-quality studies. Therefore, researchers stated that collagen supplements do not yet have a strong clinical basis for preventing or treating skin aging (21). Which form of collagen is more effective? The most effective form of collagen supplement is hydrolyzed collagen, also known as collagen peptides. This form has been broken down into small pieces through enzymatic processes and, thanks to its molecular weight of less than 2000 Daltons (Da), it is easily absorbed by the digestive system. Research has shown that hydrolyzed collagen has a 20-30% higher bioavailability compared to gelatin and native (natural) collagen forms. This allows it to be used more effectively by the body (11,12). 4. What to Consider When Choosing a Collagen Supplement? To gain maximum benefit from collagen supplementation, several important points should be considered. Since collagen molecules are large, they cannot penetrate the lower layers of the skin when applied topically and do not show a direct effect. However, they can indirectly support collagen production when combined with ingredients like Vitamin C, peptides, and hyaluronic acid. Therefore, for a deep and lasting effect, oral hydrolyzed collagen supplements with a molecular weight of less than 2000 Daltons (Da) should be preferred over creams and serums. Additionally, products that are patented and have proven efficacy in clinical studies should be chosen. Collagen synthesis is not limited to collagen intake alone; micronutrients like Vitamin C, zinc, copper, and hyaluronic acid, as well as amino acids like glycine, proline, and lysine, support this process. Specifically, Vitamin C is necessary for the enzymes involved in collagen synthesis to function. For this reason, Vitamin C should definitely be taken with collagen supplements; ideally, formulations containing Vitamin C should be preferred. The recommended age to start collagen supplementation is between 25-28, with daily doses between 5-10 grams recommended for at least 2-3 months of regular use. Personal factors must also be taken into account for the supplement to be effective. An individual’s age, gender, diet, existing diseases, allergy history, and lifestyle can all affect collagen needs and the resulting response. Therefore, the use of collagen supplements should be planned under a physician's supervision (8,11, 12,13,14,15). 5. Who is Collagen Supplementation Not Suitable For? Collagen supplements may not be suitable for everyone. Individuals with kidney and liver disease, pregnant and breastfeeding women, those with a history of cancer, and people with allergies to seafood or meat types (bovine, fish) should be cautious. Diabetic patients should also consult their doctor before using collagen. The risk of side effects may be higher in these groups. Therefore, it is best to consult a specialist before starting to use collagen. (7,16,17). Conclusion Whether collagen supplements are truly effective remains a focus of scientific research today. Although current data does not offer a definitive and universal answer, there are clinical studies reporting positive effects, particularly on parameters such as skin moisture, increased elasticity, and joint comfort. It is reported that regular use at sufficient doses can provide visible benefits for some individuals. However, it should not be forgotten that these effects can vary from person to person. Individual factors such as age, dietary habits, lifestyle, stress levels, and sleep quality directly influence how the body synthesizes and utilizes collagen. Furthermore, the form of the collagen supplement (e.g., hydrolyzed collagen peptide) and the combination of ingredients provided (Vitamin C, zinc, hyaluronic acid, etc.) play a decisive role in the bioavailability and effectiveness of the supplement. Consequently, collagen supplements should be approached not just as a cosmetic tool, but as a holistic approach to supporting general health. In conclusion, a supplementation process implemented with conscious product selection, science-based ingredients, regular use, and expert opinion when necessary, makes it possible to use collagen support more effectively and safely. References 1. Tazeoğlu, F., & Arıcı, M. Structure and properties of collagen. 2. Doğuer, Ç. (2024). Cellular aging and collagen. Health & Science 2023 Nutrition-IV, 133. 3. Ricard-Blum S. The collagen family. Cold Spring Harb Perspect Biol. 2011;3(1):a004978. 4. Frantz C, Stewart KM, Weaver VM. The extracellular matrix at a glance. Journal of Cell Science. 2010;123(24):4195-200 5. Kannus P. Structure of the tendon connective tissue. Scand J Med Sci Sports. 2000;10(6):312-20 6. Goes RA, Lopes LR, Cossich VRA, de Miranda VAR, Coelho ON, do Carmo Bastos R, et al. Musculoskeletal injuries in athletes from five modalities: a cross-sectional study. BMC Musculoskeletal Disorders. 2020;21:1-9 7. Özsoy, S., Ülker, Ö. C., & Üstündağ, A. (2024). Evaluation of oral collagen supplements and potential adverse effects. Journal of Faculty of Pharmacy of Ankara University, 48(3), 31-31. 8. Shin, S. H., Lee, Y. H., Rho, N. K., & Park, K. Y. (2023). Skin aging from mechanisms to interventions: focusing on dermal aging. Frontiers in Physiology, 14, 1195272. 9. Kang, S., Fisher, G. J., & Voorhees, J. J. (2001). Photoaging: pathogenesis, prevention, and treatment. Clinics in geriatric medicine, 17(4), 643-659. 10. Proksch, E., Schunck, M., Zague, V., Segger, D., Degwert, J., & Oesser, S. (2014). Oral intake of specific bioactive collagen peptides reduces skin wrinkles and increases dermal matrix synthesis. Skin pharmacology and physiology, 27(3), 113-119. 11. Wu, J., Fujioka, M., Sugimoto, K., Mu, G., & Ishimi, Y. (2004). Assessment of effectiveness of oral administration of collagen peptide on bone metabolism in growing and mature rats. Journal of bone and mineral metabolism, 22(6), 547-553. 12. Lee, J., Tang, J. C., Dutton, J., Dunn, R., Fraser, W. D., Enright, K., ... & Erskine, R. M. (2024). The collagen synthesis response to an acute bout of resistance exercise is greater when ingesting 30 g hydrolyzed collagen compared with 15 g and 0 g in resistance-trained young men. The Journal of nutrition, 154(7), 2076-2086. 13. Wang, H. (2021). A review of the effects of collagen treatment in clinical studies. Polymers, 13(22), 3868. 14. Zhang, J., Elango, J., Wang, S., Hou, C., Miao, M., Li, J., ... & Wu, W. (2022). Characterization of immunogenicity associated with the biocompatibility of type I collagen from tilapia fish skin. Polymers, 14(11), 2300. 15. Reilly, D. M., & Lozano, J. (2021). Skin collagen through the lifestages: importance for skin health and beauty. Plastic and Aesthetic Research, 8, N-A. 16. Mavrogeorgis, E., Mischak, H., Latosinska, A., Vlahou, A., Schanstra, J. P., Siwy, J., ... & Jankowski, J. (2021). Collagen-derived peptides in CKD: a link to fibrosis. Toxins, 14(1), 10. 17. Xu, S., Xu, H., Wang, W., Li, S., Li, H., Li, T., ... & Liu, L. (2019). The role of collagen in cancer: from bench to bedside. Journal of translational medicine, 17(1), 309. 18. Lugo, J. A., Salazar, R., Zavala, N., Rodríguez, O., Vargas, G., Lizárraga, L., ... & Sepúlveda11, M. International Journal of Medicine Sciences. 19. Zdzieblik, D., Oesser, S., Baumstark, M. W., Gollhofer, A., & König, D. (2015). Collagen peptide supplementation in combination with resistance training improves body composition and increases muscle strength in elderly sarcopenic men: a randomised controlled trial. British Journal of Nutrition, 114(8), 1237-1245. 20. de Miranda, R. B., Weimer, P., & Rossi, R. C. (2021). Effects of hydrolyzed collagen supplementation on skin aging: a systematic review and meta‐analysis. International journal of dermatology, 60(12), 1449-1461. 21. Myung, S. K., & Park, Y. (2025). Effects of Collagen Supplements on Skin Aging: A Systematic Review and Meta-analysis of Randomized Controlled Trials. The American Journal of Medicine. 22. Ricard-Blum, S. (2011). The collagen family. Cold Spring Harbor perspectives in biology, 3(1), a004978.

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Niacinamide Nedir? Cilt Lekelerine Karşı Etkili mi? - ya da multicosmetics

What is Niacinamide? Is it Effective Against Skin Blemishes?

Niacinamide is a prominent active ingredient in skincare. This is due to its multifaceted effects, particularly on a variety of issues like uneven skin tone, acne scarring, and signs of aging (1). Research shows that with regular use, niacinamide helps reduce hyperpigmentation and soothe acne-related redness (3). What is Niacinamide? Niacinamide is a type of vitamin B3 that improves skin barrier function by strengthening the water and oil layer barrier that protects the skin, increases moisture in the skin, and is used in the treatment of skin problems such as acne and psoriasis. Key Properties of Niacinamide in Skin Care Niacinamide stands out as a versatile skin care ingredient thanks to its key properties such as strengthening the skin barrier, balancing sebum production, removing skin blemishes and supporting cellular regeneration. (4) Is Niacinamide Really Effective Against Skin Blemishes? Research findings reveal that niacinamide may be an effective and safe treatment option against skin blemishes (5). What Do Scientific Studies and Clinical Research Say? Niacinamide's effect on hyperpigmentation is scientifically supported, particularly through its ability to regulate melanin production (2). Clinical studies show that topical application of 5% niacinamide significantly reduces skin blemishes in as little as 4 to 8 weeks (6). You can explore niacinamide-containing products that help combat skin blemishes here. Niacinamide's Mechanism of Action on Blemishes Niacinamide's effect on skin blemishes is primarily based on its mechanism of inhibiting melanosomal transfer, which reduces skin surface discoloration (2). This process occurs through modulation of the pigment transport cascade rather than direct inhibition of the tyrosinase enzyme, allowing niacinamide to act without causing skin irritation (7). Other Important Skin Benefits of Niacinamide Niacinamide stands out for its versatile effects in combating not only blemishes but also various other skin problems (3). Research shows that this compound reduces acne by balancing sebum production, while also relieving symptoms like redness and sensitivity thanks to its anti-inflammatory effects (1). Strengthening the Skin Barrier and Reducing Sensitivity Niacinamide stands out for its ability to strengthen the skin barrier (8). This shows the potential to reduce irritation and increase tolerance, especially in dry, sensitive, or atopic-prone skin (1). Preventing Acne by Balancing Sebum Production One of the effects of niacinamide in preventing acne is its ability to balance excess sebum production in the skin. Controlling sebum secretion reduces the risk of acne by preventing comedone formation and bacterial proliferation (9). Uses of Niacinamide in Oral Care Besides its widespread use in skin care, niacinamide also offers potential benefits in oral health (10). Effects on Oral Health and Gums Niacinamide plays an important role in maintaining the integrity of the oral mucosa. It has also been shown to reduce the inflammatory response observed in gingivitis and contribute to the protection of periodontal tissues. Therefore, adequate niacinamide intake is important for both preventive and supportive oral care (10). Who Should Choose Oral Care Products Containing Niacinamide? Oral care products containing niacinamide are a suitable supplementary option, particularly for individuals experiencing frequent irritation, aphthous ulcers, or inflammation of the oral mucosa. They also offer benefits for individuals with gum sensitivity, a tendency to gingivitis, or a weakened immune system, due to their anti-inflammatory and cell-regeneration-promoting effects (11). How to Choose and Use Products Containing Niacinamide? The effectiveness of niacinamide-containing skin care products can vary depending on the concentration and formulation (4). Furthermore, establishing a personalized application routine based on frequency of use, skin type, and existing skin problems is critical for long-term success. The Importance of Concentration in Products Research suggests that niacinamide concentrations between 2% and 5% are the ideal range for both tolerance and clinical efficacy (1). These concentrations should be considered when selecting a product. How to Use Niacinamide-Containing Serums and Creams? Serums and creams containing niacinamide generally work best when applied once or twice daily to cleansed skin (1). To minimize the risk of skin irritation, it's best to start with lower concentrations and use caution when using them with other active ingredients. Niacinamide offers scientifically proven, multifaceted benefits for a wide range of skin concerns, including blemishes, acne, redness, dehydration, and signs of aging. It stands out as both a preventative and restorative care ingredient by evenlying skin tone, balancing sebum production, and strengthening the skin barrier. With the right products and regular use, niacinamide can help achieve a visibly healthy and balanced complexion when incorporated into your daily skincare routine. REFERENCES 1. Draelos, Z. D. (2013). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 169(3), 23–28 2. Hakozaki, T., Minwalla, L., Zhuang, J., Chhoa, M., Matsubara, A., Miyamoto, K., ... & Bissett, D. L. (2002). The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology, 147(1), 20–31 3. Gehring, W. (2004). Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 3(2), 88–93. 4. Oblong, J. E., Nicoll, G., & Akers, W. A. ​​(2002). Topical niacinamide provides skin aging appearance benefits while enhancing skin barrier function. Journal of Cosmetic Science, 53(3), 151–158. 5. Navarrete-Solís, J., Castanedo-Cázares, J.P., Torres-Álvarez, B., Oros-Ovalle, C., Fuentes-Ahumada, C., González, F.J., ... & Moncada, B. (2011). A double-blind, randomized clinical trial of niacinamide 4% versus hydroquinone 4% in the treatment of melasma. Dermatology Research and Practice, 2011, 379173 6. Bissett, D. L., Miyamoto, K., Sun, P., Li, J., Berge, C. A., & Oblong, J. E. (2004). Topical niacinamide reduces yellowing, wrinkling, red blotchiness, and hyperpigmented spots in aging facial skin. International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 26(5), 231–238. 7. Greatens, A., Hakozaki, T., Koshoffer, A., Epstein, H., Schwemberger, S., Babcock, G., ... & Bissett, D. L. (2005). Effective inhibition of melanosome transfer to keratinocytes by lectins and niacinamide is reversible. Experimental Dermatology, 14(7), 498–508. 8. Tanno, O., Ota, Y., Kitamura, N., Katsube, T., & Inoue, S. (2000). Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology, 143(3), 524–531. 9. Kim, M. B., Kim, C., & Kim, M. N. (2013). The effects of niacinamide on acne vulgaris: A randomized controlled trial. Annals of Dermatology, 25(2), 136–140 10. Kirkland, J. B. (2012). Niacin status, NAD distribution and ADP-ribose metabolism. Current Pharmaceutical Design, 15(1), 3–11. 11. Yoshida, N., Yoshikawa, T., & Naito, Y. (2013). Role of oxidative stress and inflammation in periodontal disease. Current Drug Targets, 14(15), 1602–1616.

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