Expert Perspectives
What is Ashwagandha? Benefits, Usage and Everything You Need to Know
Ashwagandha, scientifically known as Withania somnifera (L.), is an evergreen shrub grown in tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, Africa, and Europe. Its Sanskrit name, ashwagandha (“ashwa” means horse, and “gandha” means scent), is commonly used because the plant's roots are said to smell like wet horse (1). Its Latin name means sleep-inducing. Although ashwagandha does not belong to the ginseng family, it is also known as Indian ginseng (2). It is named Indian ginseng because of its rejuvenating properties; its effects are not identical to those of ginseng, but rather produce different, specific effects in the body. Ashwagandha supplements have anti-stress, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, anticancer, antidiabetic, cardioprotective, and hypolipidemic properties. Ashwagandha is used not only in dietary supplements but also in cosmetic products for skin care. Plants like ashwagandha are inspiring the development of multicosmetic solutions that combine health and beauty. Ashwagandha root is thought to be used to treat leukoderma, ulcers, and scabies, as well as to heal skin wounds and reduce swelling. It has been suggested that withaferin A, due to its anti-inflammatory properties, may be used for dermatological conditions such as scleroderma or pigmentation disorders (7). Ashwagandha root and leaves have different chemical compositions. Most commercial ashwagandha supplements contain extracts from the plant's root, but some supplements may contain extracts from both the root and leaves (2). It is available in a variety of forms, including capsules, topical treatments, and tea. Ashwagandha is safe for most people when used at the correct dosage for up to 3 months, but its long-term effects are unknown. Ashwagandha may not be safe if a person: If pregnant or breastfeeding If you have hormone-sensitive prostate cancer Are taking certain medications such as benzodiazepines, anticonvulsants, or barbiturates If you are about to have surgery If you have an autoimmune or thyroid disorder If you have liver problems In these cases, it should be used under the supervision of a physician. The following side effects have been reported in some people using ashwagandha supplements (13): Gastrointestinal disorders Numbness Diarrhea Vomiting Dosage recommendations for ashwagandha vary. Research has shown that doses ranging from 250–1,250 mg per day are effective for different conditions (13). History of Ashwagandha and Its Place in Traditional Medicine Traditional and complementary medicine is increasingly popular today for treating health-related ailments. This demonstrates the strong potential for developing new medicinal combinations with fewer side effects. Ashwagandha root has been used as an adaptogen in the traditional Ayurvedic and Unani systems of medicine of India. An adaptogen is defined as a compound or product that enhances a person's ability to adapt and resist biological, physical, or chemical stressors. Classified as a "Rasayana" (rejuvenator) in Ayurveda, ashwagandha is used to support overall health and longevity (3). Scientifically proven benefits of ashwagandha include reducing stress and anxiety levels, improving sleep quality, enhancing cognitive function, and enhancing physical performance (2). Today, the traditional use of ashwagandha is supported by scientific studies (4). Its philosophy is based on the safe and responsible evaluation of effective ingredients from nature in light of scientific data. 5 Scientifically Proven Benefits of Ashwagandha In the light of scientific research on Withania somnifera, 5 important benefits come to the fore (5): Reduces stress and anxiety by lowering cortisol levels in the body due to its adaptogenic properties Improves sleep quality by shortening the time it takes to fall asleep Supporting memory, focus and general cognitive functions due to its neuroprotective properties Increases physical endurance and muscle strength due to its immune-boosting adaptogenic effect Supporting reproductive health in men by increasing testosterone levels and improving sperm quality Using Ashwagandha to Combat Stress and Anxiety Stress, anxiety, and insufficient sleep are common features of modern life. The use of adaptogenic herbs as a solution to these problems has been increasing in recent years. Among these adaptogenic herbs, ashwagandha, an Ayurvedic herb, has been shown in modern studies to have an impact on stress and anxiety. A 2019 controlled trial (4) investigated the effects of ashwagandha supplementation on reducing stress and anxiety levels. The stress-relieving effects of the root extract were studied in sixty male and female participants with baseline stress scale (PSS) scores >20 who were randomized to receive 125 mg of ashwagandha extract, 300 mg of ashwagandha extract, and placebo capsules twice daily for eight weeks in a 1:1:1 ratio. Serum cortisol levels, the most commonly used biomarker for physiological stress, were used to assess the intensity of anxiety in each participant. The Hamilton Anxiety Rating Scale (HAM-A) was used to assess the intensity of anxiety. At baseline, the recorded HAM-A scores were 23.05, 24.10, and 23.32 for the Ashwagandha 250, Ashwagandha 600, and placebo groups, respectively, while at the end of the study, the scores were 20.05, 20.15, and 21.42, respectively. As a result, a significant decrease in serum cortisol levels was observed in the Ashwagandha treatment groups compared to the placebo group (4). Similarly, a meta-analysis published in 2023 (6) evaluated a total of 558 participants by examining nine randomized controlled trials and concluded that the use of ashwagandha significantly reduced stress and anxiety levels (6). What are the Effects of Ashwagandha on Hormonal Balance? There is a remarkable relationship between hormonal balance and ashwagandha. It has been proven to regulate pituitary function, improve thyroid homeostasis, regulate adrenal activity, and have a multifaceted effect on the reproductive system (7). Ashwagandha Use in Women and Its Effect on Menopausal Symptoms Hormones affect all aspects of women's health, including menstruation, reproduction, perimenopause, and menopause. Ashwagandha use in women has a regulating effect on these hormonal processes. However, ashwagandha should be avoided during pregnancy and should not be used during breastfeeding (15). In a randomized pilot study conducted on women, Dongre et al. (2015) administered 300 mg ashwagandha capsules to the treatment group twice daily for eight weeks. Results were measured and compared using the Female Sexual Function Index (FSFI) and the Female Sexual Distress Scale (FSDS) in weeks 4 and 8. No side effects were observed in the treatment group, and it was reported that it may provide psychological relief through its anti-stress effect by reducing cortisol levels in the body or increasing sexual desire in women (8). In a study by Bhattarai et al. (2010), Ashwagandha extract was found to increase the secretion of gonadotropin hormones and improve oogenesis through its properties of mimicking the neurotransmitter GABA. This was suggested to be due to improving serum estrogen balance (9). Several studies have demonstrated the anticancer properties of ashwagandha extract against different breast tumor cell lines (MCF-7 and MDA-MB-231) by reducing tumor cell growth in vitro and in vivo (10). The extract has also been shown to improve survival and quality of life in breast cancer patients (11). Menopause symptoms and herbal remedies are a topic of interest for many women today. Estrogen levels drop significantly during perimenopause (the transition period leading to menopause) and menopause (the period when menstrual periods permanently stop). Because ashwagandha can mimic estrogen in the body, it can alleviate menopause symptoms and provide relief. Hot flashes are one of the most common symptoms of the menopausal transition and a leading reason why women seek medical attention for menopausal symptoms. Hot flashes are often associated with a decreased quality of life and sleep disturbances, and they play a significant role in influencing the severity and frequency of other symptoms experienced during menopause. One study (12) suggests that ashwagandha root extract may be a safe and effective option for relieving mild to moderate climacteric symptoms in women during perimenopause. (12) A statistically significant reduction in mean hot flash score was observed at the end of the study. Ashwagandha Use in Men and Its Effect on Testosterone Levels Ashwagandha benefits for men include increasing testosterone levels, increasing muscle mass by increasing protein synthesis in muscle, and indirectly increasing testosterone through positive effects on both mood and hormonal balance by reducing stress hormones (especially cortisol). Testosterone is primarily produced by the Leydig cells in the testicles under the influence of luteinizing hormone. Herbs that increase testosterone levels include ashwagandha, fenugreek, and tongkat ali (Malaysian ginseng). Numerous studies to date have shown that ashwagandha supplementation leads to a significant increase in testosterone levels. An experimental study by Gupta and Srivastava examined in depth the effects of ashwagandha root extract on male reproductive health. Male quails exposed to 2.4 GHz Wi-Fi radiation were used to investigate how the extract affects testosterone production and sperm count by reducing oxidative stress and inflammation (14). In the study, Wi-Fi exposure led to a significant decrease in morphological parameters such as testicular volume, density, and gonado-somatic index (GSI). A significant decrease in serum testosterone levels was also observed. Concomitant treatment with ashwagandha restored these parameters to near control levels (14). Ashwagandha's effects are even more pronounced at the molecular level. In the Wi-Fi-exposed group, the anti-inflammatory cytokine IL-10 was suppressed in the testes, while the pro-inflammatory IL-1β and NF-κB were significantly increased. Ashwagandha treatment reversed this inflammatory response, reducing inflammation in the testicular microenvironment. Furthermore, ERα (estrogen receptor alpha) expression was increased, thereby promoting testosterone synthesis. A significant increase in sperm count was also observed, and structural abnormalities in the testes (seminiferous tubule diameter and cellular organization) were corrected. These results suggest that Ashwagandha supports testosterone increases not only at the hormonal level but also at the cellular and genetic level (14). Additionally, because Ashwagandha may increase testosterone levels, individuals with hormone-sensitive prostate cancer should avoid its use (15). References: 1) Mandlik Ingawale DS, Namdeo AG. Pharmacological evaluation of Ashwagandha highlighting its healthcare claims, safety, and toxicity aspects. J Diet Suppl 2021;18:183-226 2) Office of Dietary Supplements, National Institutes of Health. Ashwagandha. Bethesda (MD): National Institutes of Health; 2024 Mar 15. 3) https://www.verywellhealth.com/when-to-take-ashwagandha-for-health-benefits-8764489 4) Salve J, Pate S, Debnath K, Langade D. Adaptogenic and Anxiolytic Effects of Ashwagandha Root Extract in Healthy Adults: A Double-blind, Randomized, Placebo-controlled Clinical Study. Cureus 2019 Dec 25;11(12):e6466. doi: 10.7759/cureus.6466. PMID: 32021735; PMCID: PMC6979308. 5) Mikulska P, Malinowska M, Ignacyk M, Szustowski P, Nowak J, Pesta K, Szeląg M, Szklanny D, Judasz E, Kaczmarek G, Ejiohuo OP, Paczkowska-Walendowska M, Gościniak A, Cielecka-Piontek J. Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera)-Current Research on the Health-Promoting Activities: A Narrative Review. Pharmaceutics. 2023 Mar 24;15(4):1057. doi: 10.3390/pharmaceutics15041057. PMID: 37111543; PMCID: PMC10147008. 6) Velan Arumugam, Venugopal Vijayakumar, Arthi Balakrishnan, Rudra B Bhandari, Deenadayalan Boopalan, Ramesh Ponnurangam, Venkateswaran Sankaralingam Thirupathy, Maheshkumar Kuppusamy,Effects of Ashwagandha (Withania Somnifera) on stress and anxiety: A systematic review and meta-analysis,EXPLORE,Volume 20, Issue 6,2024,103062,ISSN 1550-8307,https://doi.org/10.1016/j.explore.2024.103062. 7) Wiciński M, Fajkiel-Madajczyk A, Kurant Z, Kurant D, Gryczka K, Falkowski M, Wiśniewska M, Słupski M, Ohla J, Zabrzyński J. Can Ashwagandha Benefit the Endocrine System?-A Review. Int J Mol Sci. 2023 Nov 20;24(22):16513. doi: 10.3390/ijms242216513. PMID: 38003702; PMCID: PMC10671406. 8) Dongre S, Langade D, Bhattacharyya S. Efficacy and Safety of Ashwagandha (Withania somnifera) Root Extract in Improving Sexual Function in Women: A Pilot Study. Biomed Res Int 2015;2015:284154. 9) Bhattarai JP, Ah Park S, Han SK. The methanolic extract of Withania somnifera ACTS on GABAA receptors in gonadotropin releasing hormone (GnRH) neurons in mice. Phytother Res. 2010 Aug;24(8):1147-50. doi: 10.1002/ptr.3088. PMID: 20044800. 10) Bazm, MA, Naseri, L., & Khazaei, M. (2018). Methods of inducing breast cancer in animal models: A systematic review. World Cancer Research Journal, 5(4), e1182. 11) Biswal BM, Sulaiman SA, Ismail HC, Zakaria H, Musa KI. Effect of Withania somnifera (Ashwagandha) on the development of chemotherapy-induced fatigue and quality of life in breast cancer patients. Integrated Cancer Ther. 2013 Jul;12(4):312-22. doi: 10.1177/1534735412464551. Epub 2012 Nov 9. PMID: 23142798. 12) Gopal, S., Ajgaonkar, A., Kanchi, P., Kaundinya, A., Thakare, V., Chauhan, S. and Langade, D. (2021), Effect of an ashwagandha (Withania Somnifera) root extract on climacteric symptoms in women during perimenopause: A randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study. J. Obstet. Gynaecol. Res., 47: 4414-4425. https://doi.org/10.1111/jog.15030 13) Ayvaz, Zafer. (2024). Health Benefits of Ashwagandha. Ecology. 4. 15-22. 14) Gupta, V., & Srivastava, R. (2025). Amelioration and Immuno-modulation by Ashwagandha on Wi-fi Induced Oxidative Stress in Regulating Reproduction Via Estrogen Receptor Alpha in Male Japanese Quail. Reproductive Sciences, 32(455–466). 15) https://www.nccih.nih.gov/health/ashwagandha
Learn moreWhat Health Problems Could Lines on Nails Indicate?
What Causes Nail Lines? What Are Horizontal and Vertical Lines? Horizontal and vertical lines visible on nails can be an indicator of many conditions. Horizontal nail lines are seen as a result of acute illnesses, infections, and trauma, while vertical nail lines can be seen as a result of aging, vitamin and mineral deficiencies, and chronic conditions [1]. A careful examination of fingernails and toenails can reveal what the nail lines indicate and provide clues about underlying systemic diseases. Changes in nails, in particular, offer important clues about the body's overall health, and early detection can help guide the appropriate treatment. Nails can be a symptom of many health problems, from heart disease and kidney problems to thyroid disorders and anemia. Beau's Lines (Horizontal Lines): Relationship Between Acute Illness and Trauma Beau's lines (horizontal lines) are transverse linear depressions that arise on the surface of the nail plate and beneath the proximal nail fold. These lines result from a temporary decrease in mitotic activity of keratinocytes in the nail matrix, resulting in the formation of transverse grooves in the nail plate [2], [3]. The disease association of Beau's lines can develop in association with systemic and local trauma, cytotoxic agents, or metabolic events. Beau's lines are nail dystrophies with distinct clinical findings and are often associated with trauma as the initiating factor. In addition, infections, serious medical conditions, drug side effects, and autoimmune diseases can cause Beau's lines [4]. Beau's lines have been described in systemic disorders such as coronary thrombosis, measles, mumps, Kawasaki disease, pneumonia, pulmonary embolism, and renal failure [5]. These lines are caused by a temporary cessation of nail growth and are generally associated with the severity of the disease. During acute illnesses, stress and metabolic changes in the body can cause a pause in the nail matrix. Furthermore, cytotoxic treatments such as chemotherapy can affect the nails and trigger the formation of Beau's lines. However, local trauma to the nails or severe infections can also cause these lines [6]. One study found that the most common causes of Beau's lines are medications (36.3%) and infections (36.9%), respectively. Other causes include non-autoimmune systemic diseases, autoimmune systemic diseases, trauma, hereditary diseases, neurological or neuromuscular diseases, and onychomycosis [7]. Vertical Lines: Aging, Nutritional Deficiencies, or Chronic Problems Lines extending from the proximal to the free edge of the nail are part of the natural aging process [8]. The slowing of linear nail growth is due to changes in the chemical structure of the nail with age. This change can lead to an increase in vertical lines [9]. When nails become thin and dull, this condition is known as trachyonychia. This condition can be associated with related conditions such as alopecia areata, psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, and lichen planus [10]. Vertical lines can also appear on nails as a result of a diet deficient in vitamin B, folate, and protein. These vertical lines appear as thin, long lines on the nail surface and can be a sign of nutritional deficiencies and chronic diseases that negatively affect nail health [11]. Effects of Vitamin and Mineral Deficiencies on Nails The normal nail plate is composed of various nutrients in specific proportions. Therefore, vitamin and mineral deficiencies can cause significant changes in the nail plate. It is known that there is a correlation between nutrient levels in the body and blood and their concentrations in the nail plate. In cases of vitamin and mineral deficiency, nutrient concentrations in the nails decrease, while in cases of excessive intake or toxicity, nail concentrations increase. In particular, deficiencies of minerals such as iron, calcium, zinc, magnesium, and vitamins A, D, B, and C can cause significant changes in the nails [12]. Iron Deficiency Anemia and Pale Nail Beds A pale nail bed is known as a sign of anemia [13]. In iron deficiency anemia, the body's oxygen-carrying capacity decreases, and blood flow to the nail decreases. The nail bed, normally pink, becomes pale in iron deficiency anemia [13]. Furthermore, nails become quite brittle due to iron deficiency anemia, may split in layers, and raised longitudinal lines may be seen. Koilonychia is also known as "spoon nail." Koilonychia is a condition characterized by a flat central portion of the nail plate and upward curvature of the distal nail plate and lateral edges. It is a common symptom of iron deficiency anemia [17]. Fragility and Line Formation in Biotin (Vitamin B7) Deficiency Biotin is a water-soluble vitamin found in foods such as milk, eggs, and grains. It plays a role in the biosynthesis of keratin in the body, ensuring the cohesion of keratinocytes. It also increases the strength of the nail plate, stimulates cell renewal, improves nail growth, and supports nail health by reducing moisture loss [18], [19]. Biotin deficiency can lead to problems such as brittleness and striations in nails . Nails becoming more brittle than normal, slowing nail growth, and the appearance of longitudinal striations indicate that the body needs biotin. In this case, taking biotin supplements and consuming biotin-rich foods will be beneficial for strengthening and healthy nail growth [19]. Reflection of Systemic Diseases in Nails Changes in nail shape, color, and growth rate can be signs of systemic diseases. They provide clues about diseases in the circulatory, respiratory, endocrine, renal, musculoskeletal, nutritional, and metabolic systems. For example, psoriasis, thyroid disease, and diabetes can cause characteristic changes in nails. Pitting is observed in the nail surface in psoriasis. Thyroid patients experience symptoms such as brittle nails and slowed growth, while diabetic patients experience yellowing and thickening of the nails. These changes in the nails are important in diagnosing systemic diseases and allow for early diagnosis [20], [21]. Psoriasis and Nail Pitting Symptoms Nail psoriasis is known as a social and psychological problem that causes functional problems in patients. Psoriasis, a systemic disease, is not only a cosmetic blemish but also affects daily life [22]. One study found that psoriasis (20%) is the most common nail disorder after onychomycosis (nail fungus) [23]. Common symptoms of psoriasis include pitting, subungual hyperkeratosis, and loosening of the nail plate [22]. Pitting is the most common symptom, affecting 68% of patients. These superficial depressions in the nail plate are related to inflammation of the nail matrix [24]. Pitting can also be seen in diseases such as lichen planus, eczema, and alopecia areata, but the pits in psoriasis are deeper [1]. Less commonly, symptoms such as nail discoloration and bleeding can be observed. Because these symptoms can also be seen in other diseases, accurate diagnosis is important. Nail Changes Associated with Thyroid Disorders Nail problems are observed in 5% of patients with hyperthyroidism. Symptoms include onycholysis (separation of the nail plate from the nail bed), brittle nails, and brown spots on the nails [25]. In hypothyroid patients, brittle nails, flattening, slow growth, dryness, and onychorrhexis (longitudinal ridges) are observed [26]. Hypothyroidism causes hypothermia due to secondary vasoconstriction and a decrease in metabolic rate. Vasoconstriction reduces oxygen and nutrient transfer to the skin, resulting in brittle, slow-growing nails. Hyperthyroidism, however, can cause rapid nail growth due to vasodilation [27]. In patients with thyrotoxicosis, onycholysis, soft, and concave nails are observed [28]. These nail changes can be early clinical signs of thyroid disorders. Dermatological and Cosmetic Factors Nail treatments performed to achieve an aesthetic appearance can damage the nail surface and the surrounding area [29]. Improper nail trimming can lead to ingrown nails and infections. Removing cuticles removes the protective barrier surrounding the nail, making it vulnerable to infection. Filing vertical lines in nail cosmetics can also cause nail breakage. Nails can also weaken after procedures such as manicures, and prolonged use of nail polish can lead to loss of oxygen and discoloration [30], [31]. Because solvents and nail polishes such as acetone damage the nail's structure, they can break and thin. Long-term use of acetone can cause keratin granulation [32]. Using the Wrong Nail Polish Remover and Nail Surface Damage Nail polish removers are generally organic solvents obtained by adding fragrance and color [33]. Nail polish removers dissolve the resin layer that accumulates on the nail surface [34]. Acetone is the most commonly used and well-known nail polish remover. Because it is a strong solvent, it can quickly remove nail polish, but misuse can be irritating even at low concentrations, leaving nails looking dry and dull. Furthermore, frequent acetone use can cause keratin degranulation in the nail plate, leading to white streaks on the nail surface [32]. Choosing the right nail polish remover is crucial for nail health. To minimize adverse effects, use a small amount of product and avoid overuse. The Role of Moisture Loss and Lipid Barrier Dysfunction The water content of nails is important for maintaining the structure of keratinized tissue. Cosmetic products used on nails damage the keratin structure, decreasing water content and leading to moisture loss. Maintaining moisture balance is important for healthy nail growth. Nail polish removers disrupt the nail's natural moisture balance, leading to thinning and breakage [35]. Cosmetic products also cause lipid barrier dysfunction. Acetone use damages the lipid barrier. Nails soften, break, and gaps in the nail's layered structure are observed. These adverse effects can be prevented by using moisturizing and nourishing products for nail health [36]. Tips for Maintaining Nail Health To keep nails looking healthy and prevent breakage, it's important to take some precautions. Here are some tips for maintaining healthy nails: Keep nails short: Regularly cutting nails will prevent breakage and trauma. Take care to keep nails clean and dry: Clean nails prevent bacteria and fungi from growing in the nails. SLS-free nail cleansers should be preferred to protect skin-nail integrity. Prolonged exposure to water can cause nails to crack. Wear gloves to reduce exposure. Add moisturizing and nourishing products to your care routine: Keeping nails moist will protect them from damage and cracking. Avoid chemical products: Chemical-based cleaners damage the nail structure. Nail polish removers containing acetone can disrupt the moisture balance of nails, causing them to weaken. You can preserve the natural structure of your nails by choosing products with less chemical content [37], [38]. Maintaining nail health isn't just about a routine; it's also important to take precautions against infections like nail fungus. Therefore, early diagnosis and proper nail fungus treatment are crucial. Choosing a Cleanser Suitable for Skin-Nail Integrity (SLS-Free Products) Nail health isn't just about nail care. Choosing a cleanser that's compatible with your skin is important. Cuticles act as a barrier that supports the nail. Therefore, choosing the right cleanser plays a critical role in maintaining skin-nail integrity. SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate) is a surfactant commonly used as a cleansing agent in skin care products [39]. SLS can disrupt the composition of skin lipids, removing lipids from the stratum corneum surface, and thus impairing the skin barrier function [40]. This effect may be more pronounced because the skin around the nails is more sensitive. Cleansing products containing SLS can cause dryness and cracking of the cuticles, especially when hands frequently come into contact with water. Furthermore, they can cause the loss of natural oils that nourish and strengthen nails. To maintain skin-nail integrity, appropriate care should be taken, and skin-friendly, SLS-free products should be preferred [41]. Nail Care with Moisturizing Ingredients (Ceramide, Panthenol) Moisturizing products significantly reduce the risk of nail breakage and cracking by maintaining the moisture balance. Ceramides are lipids naturally found in the skin that help strengthen the skin barrier. They keep the skin moisturized and prevent drying and irritation [42]. Panthenol is an important ingredient in nail care. Because panthenol is a water-soluble and hygroscopic substance, it has a moisturizing effect. In addition to moisturizing the skin, it also improves the appearance of roughness. This property also provides protection against skin irritation and damage caused by substances like SLS [43]. Regular use of moisturizing products helps keep the nail plate and cuticles healthy and strong. Repairing Formulas Supported by Biotechnological Actives The use of bioactive nail products to support nail health has gained significant importance in recent years. Bioactive nail products contain various biotechnological and natural ingredients that support and repair nail health. Ingredients such as keratin, biotin, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, ceramide, and various oils contribute to strong and healthy nails. These ingredients strengthen the nail structure, help maintain moisture balance, and improve the skin barrier around the nail [44]. With its restorative, nourishing and moisturizing formula, the nail care pen ensures that the nails gain a healthy appearance. Source 1. Fawcett, R. S., Linford, S., & Stulberg, D. L. (2004). Nail abnormalities: clues to systemic disease. American family physician, 69(6), 1417-1424. 2. Kim, BR, Da-Ae, YU, Lee, SR, Lim, SS, & Je-Ho, MUN (2023). Beau's Lines and Onychomadesis: a systematic review of characteristics and aetiology. Acta Dermato-Venereologica, 103, 18251. 3. Robert, C., Sibaud, V., Mateus, C., Verschoore, M., Charles, C., Lanoy, E., & Baran, R. (2015). Nail toxicities induced by systemic anticancer treatments. The Lancet Oncology, 16(4), e181-e189. 4. Braswell, MA, Daniel III, CR, & Brodell, RT (2015). 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Nail Whispers Revealing Dermatological and Systemic Secrets: An Analysis of Nail Disorders Associated With Diverse Dermatological and Systemic Conditions. Cureus, 15(9). 24. Jiaravuthisan, M.M., Sasseville, D., Vender, R.B., Murphy, F., & Muhn, C.Y. (2007). Psoriasis of the nail: anatomy, pathology, clinical presentation, and a review of the literature on therapy. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 57(1), 1-27. 25. Mullin, G. E., & Eastern, J. S. (1986). Cutaneous consequences of accelerated thyroid function. Cutis, 37(2), 109-114. 26. Rosenberg, A., & Lipner, S. R. (2022). Nail changes associated with thyroid disease. Cutis, 110(2), E8-E12. 27. Heymann, W. R. (1992). Cutaneous manifestations of thyroid disease. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 26(6), 885-902. 28. Safer, J. D. (2011). Thyroid hormone action on skin. Dermato-endocrinology, 3(3), 211-215. 29. Dinani, N., & George, S. (2019). Nail cosmetics: a dermatological perspective. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 44(6), 599-605. 30. Iorizzo, M., Piraccini, B. M., & Tosti, A. (2007). Nail cosmetics in nail disorders. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 6(1), 53-58. 31. Chen, AF, Chimento, S.M., Hu, S., Sanchez, M., Zaiac, M., & Tosti, A. (2012). Nail damage from gel polish manicure. Journal of cosmetic dermatology, 11(1), 27-29. 32. Rieder, E.A., & Tosti, A. (2016). Cosmetically induced disorders of the nail with update on contemporary nail manicures. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 9(4), 39. 33. Arora, H., & Tosti, A. (2017). Safety and efficacy of nail products. Cosmetics, 4(3), 24. 34. Bansal, S., & Grover, C. (2024). Adverse effects of nail cosmetics and how to prevent them. Cosmoderma, 4. 35. Barba, C., Méndez, S., Martí, M., Parra, J. L., & Coderch, L. (2009). Water content of hair and nails. Thermochimica Acta, 494(1-2), 136-140. 36. Maeda, K., & Iwashita, N. (2022). Experimental Study of the Reduction in Ceramide Content in Fingernails Due to Nail Polish Remover Use. Cosmetics, 9(6), 125. 37. Chessa, MA, Iorizzo, M., Richert, B., López-Estebaranz, J.L., Rigopoulos, D., Tosti, A., ... & Piraccini, B.M. (2020). Pathogenesis, clinical signs and treatment recommendations in brittle nails: a review. Dermatology and therapy, 10, 15-27. 38. Menge, J. Tips for Nail Health. 39. Fiume, M., Bergfeld, WF, Belsito, DV, Klaassen, CD, Marks, JG, Shank, RC, ... & Andersen, FA (2010). Final report on the safety assessment of sodium cetearyl sulfate and related alkyl sulfates as used in cosmetics. International journal of toxicology, 29(3_suppl), 115S-132S. 40. Wilhelm, K. P., Freitag, G., & Wolff, H. H. (1994). Surfactant-induced skin irritation and skin repair: evaluation of a cumulative human irritation model by noninvasive techniques. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 31(6), 981-987. 41. 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Learn moreSafe Sun Protection: The Relationship Between Oxybenzone and Hormone Balance
What is Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3)? Oxybenzone ((Benzophenone-3) is a filter used in sunscreens that protects the skin against both UV-B and UV-A radiation. Effects of Oxybenzone on the Endocrine System The endocrine system is a term used for the system of organs and glands that produce and secrete hormones into the blood. (14) The endocrine system consists of the hypothalamus, pineal gland, pituitary gland, thyroid gland, parathyroid gland, thymus gland, adrenal glands, and pancreas; the testes in men, the ovaries in women, and the placenta during pregnancy. (14) According to scientific studies, the most concerning sunscreen active ingredient is oxybenzone. It is easily absorbed by the skin and has hormonal imbalance-disrupting effects. (1) Estrogen-like Activity Increasing evidence regarding endocrine disrupting chemicals indicates adverse effects on the endocrine system, including the reproductive system and prostate, due to their estrogenic or antiandrogenic effects. (2) According to in vivo and in vitro studies, oxybenzone can bind to the estrogen receptor and act like a natural estrogen in the body. This may increase cell proliferation, particularly in breast cancer cells, and negatively impact reproductive health. (3) Effects on Thyroid Functions Various studies have demonstrated the potential disruptive effects of oxybenzone (benzophenone-3) on thyroid function. These effects are related to its ability to alter the synthesis, secretion, and receptor interactions of thyroid hormones (especially T3 and T4). Studies in mice have shown that oxybenzone can reduce levels of the thyroid hormones T3 (triiodothyronine) and T4 (thyroxine). This can lead to hypothyroidism-like results. A decrease in thyroid hormone levels can, through a feedback mechanism, lead to an increase in thyroid-stimulating hormone (TSH) levels. This can lead to long-term thyroid dysfunction. (4) Some epidemiological studies suggest that hormone disruptors such as oxybenzone may be associated with the development of autoimmune thyroid diseases. (3) Thyroid hormones play a critical role in brain development and metabolism. Oxybenzone has attracted attention because its use in pregnant women can cause neurodevelopmental disorders in the fetus. (4) Effects on Reproductive Health The effects of oxybenzone on reproductive health and its potential negative consequences for both male and female reproductive systems have been investigated in various scientific studies. Oxybenzone exposure has been shown to be associated with decreased sperm quality and decreased sperm motility. Animal studies have reported that oxybenzone can reduce testicular weight and lower testosterone levels. (4) An epidemiological study by Buck Louis and colleagues indicates that oxybenzone can cause a decrease in sperm count and DNA damage in humans. (5) It is thought that oxybenzone, due to its estrogen-like effects, can disrupt hormonal cycles and lead to problems such as early menopause. (3) Women exposed to oxybenzone during pregnancy are at increased risk of low birth weight and premature birth. (6) How Oxybenzone Enters the Body The routes through which oxybenzone enters the body are related to environmental exposure and exposure through personal care products. It generally appears to enter the human body through these two primary routes. Dermal Absorption The most common route of oxybenzone absorption is through the skin via personal care products such as hormone-disrupting sunscreens. (7) Because oxybenzone is a lipophilic (oil-soluble) compound, it readily penetrates the epidermal lipid layer. (8) The rate of absorption varies depending on the integrity of the skin barrier, frequency of application, oxybenzone concentration, and the extent of skin surface area to which it is applied. (8) Exposure to UV light may increase oxybenzone absorption. This is due to the weakening of the skin barrier and an increased likelihood of reaching deeper layers. (9) Participation in Systemic Circulation Oxybenzone, absorbed through the skin (transdermal transfer), passes through the epidermal barrier, reaches the dermis layer and enters the blood circulation. In a study published in the journal JAMA in 2019, Matta and colleagues measured plasma concentrations after skin application of oxybenzone-containing sunscreens. (7) Oxybenzone-containing sunscreen was applied to 24 participants four times a day for four days, and plasma samples were collected at regular intervals after each application. (7) After the first application, oxybenzone plasma concentration started at a low level of 0.5 ng/ml and increased rapidly as the number of applications increased. (7) By the end of the fourth day, plasma oxybenzone levels reached 210.1 ng/ml. (7) The duration of oxybenzone in plasma after the application was terminated was calculated to be approximately 24-48 hours. (7) However, in some participants, it was detected in plasma for up to 4 days after the application was terminated. (7) These findings suggest that oxybenzone crosses the skin barrier and enters the bloodstream, accumulates with repeated applications, is metabolized and slowly eliminated from the body, and varies in plasma residence time depending on individual differences. Once in the systemic circulation, oxybenzone binds to plasma proteins and is transported to various tissues throughout the body. Biotransformation occurs in the liver, where it is converted to more polar metabolites via glucuronidation and excreted. (10) Risk Groups Since oxybenzone came to the fore with its harmful effects, the affected populations have gained importance. The groups most at risk from oxybenzone's harmful effects include pregnant women, fetuses, infants, young children, individuals with hormonal imbalances, individuals prone to allergic reactions, individuals with a history of cancer, and individuals at high risk of cancer. Pregnant and Nursing Mothers Many studies have shown that oxybenzone can cross the placental barrier and pass to the fetus. This passage can have adverse effects on fetal development. A study conducted in pregnant women in China sought to evaluate the effects of prenatal exposure to phenol derivatives (specifically chemicals such as oxybenzone and bisphenol A) on birth weight, gestational age, and neonatal health. Urine samples were collected from 450 women during pregnancy, and phenol and oxybenzone metabolite levels were measured. Parameters such as birth weight, time of birth, head circumference, and health status of the newborns were recorded. Benzophenone-3 (BP-3) metabolites were analyzed in the urine samples, and the resulting data were used to assess chemical exposure levels during pregnancy. The measured levels were compared with those of pregnant women without phenol exposure. Babies born to mothers with high levels of oxybenzone exposure during pregnancy were found to have an average birth weight of 120-150 grams lower than babies born to women with low exposure. Babies born to mothers in the highest quartile of oxybenzone exposure had a 22% increased risk of low birth weight. Women with high levels of oxybenzone metabolites have a significantly increased risk of premature birth (delivery before 37 weeks' gestation). The rate of premature birth was 18% in the group with high oxybenzone levels and 8% in the group with low levels. (11) High oxybenzone exposure resulted in infants with a head circumference that was measured to be 0.5 cm smaller on average. Prenatal oxybenzone exposure increased the risk of fetal growth restriction (FGR). FGR cases were more common in the high-exposure group. (11) Specific and comprehensive scientific studies on the effects on breastfeeding mothers are limited. Several studies have found varying amounts of oxybenzone and octinoxate in the breast milk of sunscreen users. It is not yet known whether these chemicals are transferred in high enough amounts to cause adverse effects in breastfed infants. (12,13) To protect the health of both mother and baby, oxybenzone-free sunscreens should be preferred, and it is important to consult a healthcare professional if necessary. Sunscreens containing non-nanoparticle zinc oxide are a good alternative for breastfeeding mothers. (17) Children and Adolescents Because hormonal changes are more sensitive during childhood and adolescence, exposure to oxybenzone can have more serious consequences in this age group. Furthermore, children's skin is more sensitive and permeable, so the risk of accumulation is higher. Many endocrine-disrupting chemicals have been observed to cause early puberty. Precocious puberty refers to a pathological condition involving the earlier-than-normal emergence of secondary sex characteristics. Because it causes increased hormone secretion in children, it can threaten both their physical and psychological health. While a cause is generally unidentifiable in girls, a specific cause is more likely to be found in boys. (14) Precocious puberty causes the pineal glands to fuse prematurely, leading to premature completion of development. Hematomas in the hypothalamus, adenomas in the pituitary gland, tumors in the nervous system, short stature in adulthood, and cancers of the breast or reproductive system have been associated with precocious puberty. (14) Safe Alternatives When choosing skin care products and sunscreen, the ingredients of the sunscreens should be carefully examined. According to the latest statements from the United States Food and Drug Administration (FDA), 16 compounds were studied and only two, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, were reported as “generally recognized as safe and effective,” or GRASE, based on available information. (15,16) Data indicating safety issues suggest that two rarely used sunscreen ingredients, aminobenzoic acid and trolamine salicylate, are not GRASE. (15,16) The FDA states that 12 other ingredients are not GRASE due to insufficient data: oxybenzone avobenzone, cinoxate, dioxybenzone, ensulizole, homosalate, meradimate, octinoxate, octisalate, octocrylene, padimate O, and sulisobenzone. (15,16) Mineral-Based Sunscreens Mineral sunscreens, such as zinc oxide, an FDA-approved sunscreen ingredient, create a physical barrier to block and reflect both UVA and UVB rays. Titanium dioxide is often found in cosmetics as a sunscreen, but it is not as effective at blocking some UVA rays and is therefore not preferred (alone) for sun protection. (17) When safer sunscreens are desired, sunscreens containing non-nanoparticles of zinc oxide can be preferred. This form remains on the skin (it doesn't absorb into the bloodstream) and provides protection by scattering, absorbing, and reflecting UV rays. (17) Disadvantages include the ability to leave a white residue on the skin surface. (17) Because it doesn't enter the systemic circulation, it doesn't pass into breast milk, making it a good alternative for breastfeeding mothers. (17) Nanoparticle zinc oxide formulations are also available and have been designed to reduce the appearance of a white residue. (17) However, small nanoparticles have the ability to penetrate the skin and be absorbed systemically to a small degree. (17) However, nanoparticle zinc oxide appears to have lower absorption than chemical sunscreens and therefore a lower risk of potential side effects. (17) However, there is one report suggesting that it is possible for breast-fed infants to consume enough nanoparticle zinc oxide to cause diarrhea. (18) Natural UV Filters A systematic database search investigated the effects of UV radiation on human keratinocyte cells (HaCaT) in vitro and UVB exposure in mouse models in vivo. Examples of natural UV filters include plant sources such as Hibiscus roseus, Moringa oleifera, Coffea arabica, and Vinis vinifera (19). Natural UV filters are generally composed of plant compounds such as flavonoids, polyphenols, phenolic acids, and carotenoids. Flavonoids and phenolic compounds absorb UV rays with wavelengths between 200 and 400 nm thanks to the double bonds in their molecular structures. Plant polyphenols reduce oxidative stress by inhibiting free radical production, thus protecting skin cells from DNA damage caused by UV rays. (19) Additionally, some ingredients increase the inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs), thus reducing collagen destruction in the skin and thus reducing wrinkle formation. (19) Legal Regulations and Restrictions Oxybenzone is subject to various regulations and restrictions due to both its human health and environmental effects. According to the EU Cosmetics Regulation and the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA), oxybenzone is approved for use in sunscreens at a maximum of 6%. However, a report from the European Commission has stated that current human exposure levels are unsafe and therefore recommended limiting the oxybenzone concentration to 2.2%. (16) In 2021, the FDA stated that there was insufficient data on the safety of oxybenzone and requested that safety tests be completed. (16) The sale of sunscreens containing oxybenzone has been banned in Hawaii, USA, effective January 1, 2021. (20) Additionally, scientific studies have shown that oxybenzone damages coral reefs and negatively impacts marine life. (21) Conscious Consumer Guide In light of studies on the accumulation of oxybenzone in the human body and its intergenerational transmission, the use of safe alternative products is key to avoiding potential risks and protecting environmental health. (22) When choosing a sunscreen, carefully examine the ingredient list, and choose sunscreens free of chemicals like oxybenzone, natural mineral-based sunscreens, or natural and plant-based UV protectors. Alternatively, HelioVita has created a sunscreen line for you, paying attention to all these details for your safe use. Pregnant women, fetuses, infants, young children, people with hormonal imbalances, individuals prone to allergic reactions, individuals with a history of cancer, and individuals at high risk of cancer should be more meticulous in choosing sunscreen. If you don't want to use sunscreen, take physical precautions like a hat, sunglasses, and long-sleeved clothing. Remedium Body Lotion will replace the moisture your skin loses after exposure to sun, sand, hot weather, and wind. References 1) Ghazipura M, McGowan R, Arslan A, Hossain T. Exposure to benzophenone-3 and reproductive toxicity: A systematic review of human and animal studies. Reprod Toxicol. 2017 Oct;73:175-183. doi: 10.1016/j.reprotox.2017.08.015. Epub 2017 Aug 24. PMID: 28844799. 2) Vitku J, Skodova T, Varausova A, Gadus L, Michnova L, Horackova L, Kolatorova L, Simkova M, Heracek J. Endocrine Disruptors and Estrogens in Human Prostatic Tissue. Physiol Res. 2023 Dec 17;72(S4):S411-S422. doi: 10.33549/physiolres.935246. PMID: 38116777. 3) Krause, M., Klit, A., Blomberg Jensen, M., Søeborg, T., Frederiksen, H., Schlumpf, M., Lichtensteiger, W., Skakkebaek, NE and Drzewiecki, KT (2012), Sunscreens: are they beneficial for health? An overview of endocrine disrupting properties of UV-filters. International Journal of Andrology, 35: 424-436. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1365-2605.2012.01280.x 4) Amira M. Aker, Lauren Johns, Thomas F. McElrath, David E. Cantonwine, Bhramar Mukherjee, John D. Meeker, Associations between maternal phenol and paraben urinary biomarkers and maternal hormones during pregnancy: A repeated measures study,Environment International,Volume 113,2018,Pages 341-349, ISSN 0160-4120, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.envint.2018.01.006. 5) Buck Louis GM, Sundaram R, Schisterman EF, Sweeney AM, Lynch CD, Gore-Langton RE, Maisog J, Kim S, Chen Z, Barr DB. Persistent environmental pollutants and couple fecundity: the LIFE study. Environ Health Perspect. 2013 Feb;121(2):231-6. doi: 10.1289/ehp.1205301. Epub 2012 Nov 14. PMID: 23151773; PMCID: PMC3569685. 6) Wolff MS, Engel SM, Berkowitz GS, Ye X, Silva MJ, Zhu C, Wetmur J, Calafat AM. Prenatal phenol and phthalate exposures and birth outcomes. Environ Health Perspect. 2008 Aug;116(8):1092-7. doi: 10.1289/ehp.11007. PMID: 18709157; PMCID: PMC2516577. 7) Matta MK, Florian J, Zusterzeel R, Pilli NR, Patel V, Volpe DA, Yang Y, Oh L, Bashaw E, Zineh I, Sanabria C, Kemp S, Godfrey A, Adah S, Coelho S, Wang J, Furlong LA, Ganley C, Michele T, Strauss DG. Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients: A Randomized Clinical Trial. JAMA. 2020 Jan 21;323(3):256-267. doi: 10.1001/jama.2019.20747. Erratum in: JAMA. 2020 Mar 17;323(11):1098. doi: 10.1001/jama.2020.1950. PMID: 31961417; PMCID: PMC6990686. 8) Nadeem Rezaq Janjua, Brian Mogensen, Anna-Maria Andersson, Jørgen Holm Petersen, Mette Henriksen, Niels E. Skakkebæk, Hans Christian Wulf,Systemic Absorption of the Sunscreens Benzophenone-3, Octyl-Methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-Methyl-Benzylidene) Camphor After Whole-Body Topical Application and Reproductive Hormone Levels in Humans,Journal of Investigative Dermatology,Volume 123, Issue 1,2004,Pages 57-61,ISSN 0022-202X,https://doi.org/10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22725.x. 9) Gonzalez H, Farbrot A, Larkö O, Wennberg AM. Percutaneous absorption of the sunscreen benzophenone-3 after repeated whole-body applications, with and without ultraviolet irradiation. BrJ Dermatol. 2006 Feb;154(2):337-40. doi: 10.1111/j.1365-2133.2005.07007.x. PMID: 16433806. 10) Janjua NR, Mogensen B, Andersson AM, Petersen JH, Henriksen M, Skakkebaek NE, Wulf HC. Systemic absorption of the sunscreens benzophenone-3, octyl-methoxycinnamate, and 3-(4-methyl-benzylidene) camphor after whole-body topical application and reproductive hormone levels in humans. J Invest Dermatol. 2004 Jul;123(1):57-61. doi: 10.1111/j.0022-202X.2004.22725.x. PMID: 15191542. 11) Tang R, Chen MJ, Ding GD, Chen XJ, Han XM, Zhou K, Chen LM, Xia YK, Tian Y, Wang XR. Associations of prenatal exposure to phenols with birth outcomes. Environ Pollut. 2013 Jul;178:115-20. doi: 10.1016/j.envpol.2013.03.023. Epub 2013 Apr 3. PMID: 23562958. 12) Anderson P.O. Summer Topics on Breastfeeding. Breastfeed Med. 2020 Jun;15(6):354-356. doi: 10.1089/bfm.2020.0053. Epub 2020 Mar 20. PMID: 32196354. 13) Lin H. Chen, Caroline Zeind, Sheila Mackell, Trisha LaPointe, Margot Mutsch, Mary E. Wilson, Breastfeeding Travelers: Precautions and Recommendations, Journal of Travel Medicine, Volume 17, Issue 1, 1 January 2010, Pages 32–47, https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1708-8305.2009.00362.x 14) https://yadacosmetics.com/blogs/uzman-gozuyle/endokrin-hormon-sistemi-bozucu- Kimyasal-maddeler-ve-erken-ergenlik-i%CC%87liskisi 15) https://www.fda.gov/drugs/cder-conversations/update-sunscreen-requirements-deemed-final-order-and-proposed-order 16) https://www.ewg.org/sunscreen/report/the-trouble-with-sunscreen-chemicals/ 17) https://www.infantrisk.com/content/sunscreen-smarts-breastfeeding-families 18) Ceballos-Rasgado M, Lowe NM, Mallard S, Clegg A, Moran VH, Harris C, Montez J, Xipsiti M. Adverse Effects of Excessive Zinc Intake in Infants and Children Aged 0-3 Years: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis. Adv Nutr. 2022 Dec 22;13(6):2488-2518. doi: 10.1093/advances/nmac088. PMID: 36055780; PMCID: PMC9776731. 19) Li L, Chong L, Huang T, Ma Y, Li Y, Ding H. Natural products and extracts from plants as natural UV filters for sunscreens: A review. Animal Model Exp Med. 2023 Jun;6(3):183-195. doi: 10.1002/ame2.12295. Epub 2022 Dec 19. PMID: 36536536; PMCID: PMC10272908. 20) https://www.personalcarecouncil.org/sunscreen/ 21) https://www.surfrider.org/news/your-guide-to-reef-friendly-sunscreens 22) Çetinkaya S. Endocrine environmental disruptors and their effects on adolescence. diclemedj. March 2009;36(1):59-66.
Learn moreImpacts of Climate Change on Sustainable Production and Consumption
Climate change has become one of the biggest global problems of our day due to the rapidly increasing consumption of fossil fuels since the industrial revolution, excessive use of natural resources and environmentally insensitive production models. The concept of sustainable production and consumption is an approach that aims to use existing resources without harming future generations and plays a critical role in combating climate change. In this context, sectors that consume large amounts of raw materials, especially the cosmetics industry, need to take steps to minimize their environmental impacts. Renewable energy, sustainable agriculture, protection of biodiversity and biotechnological solutions stand out among climate-friendly production models. Establishing the correct link between global warming and resource management will both protect nature and support economic and social sustainability in the long term. Climate Change and Sustainability Relationship: Basic Concepts Climate change is a global problem that results in increased greenhouse gas emissions as a result of fossil fuel-based energy production, resulting in rising global temperatures, intensifying extreme weather events, decreasing water resources, and disrupting ecosystem balance. Sustainability is an approach that aims to achieve economic and social development without consuming natural resources or harming the environment. While sustainability policy aims to achieve balanced development in terms of environmental, economic, and social dimensions, climate change disrupts this balance. Climate change, as one of the biggest factors threatening sustainability, necessitates long-term planning in natural resource management. Sustainable practices such as the use of renewable energy sources, reducing carbon footprint, and water and energy efficiency can help mitigate the effects of climate change. In addition, reducing waste production with a circular economy approach, turning to nature-friendly production processes, and supporting biodiversity by protecting ecosystems are critical for sustainable development. In order to be successful in combating climate change on a global scale, sustainability principles must be adopted in every sector and at an individual level. The Link Between Global Warming and Resource Management Global warming is accelerating with fossil fuel consumption, deforestation and industrial activities, making natural resource management increasingly critical. Rising temperatures trigger water scarcity, melting glaciers raise sea levels, threatening coastal areas and extreme weather events destroy ecosystems. It is not possible to stop these effects without efficient resource management strategies. Energy efficiency practices, the expansion of renewable energy sources and the adoption of circular economy models are necessary to both reduce the carbon footprint and use resources sustainably. Especially in production-oriented sectors such as the cosmetics industry, practices such as water saving, the use of biodegradable packaging and waste management play a critical role in reducing the negative effects of global warming. In the fight against global warming, resource management necessitates change not only in industrial and production processes but also in individual consumption habits; making the implementation of sustainability policies inevitable. Ecological Footprint of the Cosmetics Industry The cosmetics industry has a large ecological footprint, from raw material production to packaging waste. Petroleum-derived chemicals used in production processes, water consumption and greenhouse gas emissions are the main factors that threaten environmental sustainability. While microplastics and synthetic chemicals mix with water resources and negatively affect marine ecosystems, single-use plastic packaging increases the waste problem. Biodegradable content, water-saving production techniques and recyclable packaging should be encouraged for the transition to sustainable production in the sector. In addition, renewable energy use and processes aimed at reducing carbon footprints are critical for cosmetics manufacturers to minimize their environmental impacts. Consumer awareness and preference for sustainable products is an important step that will accelerate the green transformation in the sector. Climate Crisis and Sustainable Production in the Cosmetics Industry The climate crisis is forcing the cosmetics industry to reduce its environmental impact and adopt a sustainable cosmetics production approach. One of the most important components of this transformation is the widespread use of renewable energy in the cosmetics industry. Production facilities operating on clean energy sources such as solar and wind energy contribute to environmental sustainability in the sector by significantly reducing carbon emissions. In addition, regulations that limit the use of microplastics and harmful chemicals ensure the spread of sustainable cosmetics production processes with environmentally friendly formulas. These developments allow both brands to fulfill their environmental responsibilities and consumers to turn to eco-conscious products. Carbon Footprint Reduction Strategies (Energy Efficiency, Renewable Energy) Carbon footprint refers to the total amount of greenhouse gases released into the atmosphere as a result of human activities and is one of the biggest drivers of climate change. Two basic strategies stand out for reducing carbon footprint: energy efficiency and renewable energy use. Energy efficiency covers applications that aim to achieve the same output by consuming less energy and can be applied in a wide range of areas from industry to transportation. Thermal insulation in buildings, LED lighting systems, electric vehicle use and efficient production technologies are among the solutions that reduce carbon emissions by increasing energy efficiency. Renewable energy is the use of energy sources that do not harm nature, such as solar, wind, hydroelectric and biomass, instead of fossil fuels and supports sustainable development by significantly reducing carbon emissions. These strategies are also of great importance in terms of reducing the carbon footprint in the cosmetics industry. Cosmetics production is a sector that generally requires energy-intensive processes and traditional production methods are based on fossil fuels. Therefore, the transition of factories to renewable energy and the spread of production facilities operating with solar and wind energy are steps that support environmental sustainability in the sector. In addition, waste heat recovery, low-temperature machines and water-saving systems can be used in production processes within the scope of energy efficiency. In addition, preferring sustainable content will reduce the carbon footprint not only at the production stage but also throughout the supply chain. We see that reducing and tracking the carbon footprint is becoming the new management approach of the manufacturers. Consumers' preference for products with low carbon footprints will accelerate the green transformation of the sector and encourage a more environmentally friendly approach to the climate crisis. Protection of Water Resources and Waste Management The protection of water resources is a critical issue in maintaining ecosystem balance and combating climate change. The effects of increasing population, industrialization and global warming are leading to the decrease of freshwater resources and water scarcity. This situation has made it necessary to develop sustainable solutions that save water. Rainwater harvesting, water recycling systems, efficient irrigation techniques such as drip irrigation and the reuse of water in industrial processes are effective methods to reduce water consumption. In addition, waste management is also of great importance in terms of preventing water pollution. Industrial waste, agricultural chemicals and plastic pollution are the main factors that threaten water resources. Expanding recycling systems, reducing single-use plastics, switching to refillable packaging and encouraging biodegradable packaging are critical steps in protecting aquatic ecosystems. In this context, the cosmetics industry must also take responsibility for the protection of water resources and waste management. Traditional cosmetics production processes consume large amounts of water, while production waste also causes water pollution. The development of water-based formulas, the use of sustainable raw materials and the improvement of wastewater treatment systems can help the industry reduce water consumption. Banning microplastics in cosmetics and promoting natural ingredients can also reduce negative impacts on the ecosystem. Climate-Friendly Impact of Biotechnological Raw Materials Biotechnological raw materials offer climate-friendly alternatives that leave a lower carbon footprint compared to traditional agricultural and chemical production processes. Traditional raw material production leads to environmental problems such as high water and energy consumption, excessive use of agricultural lands, and carbon emissions. While plant and animal ingredients obtained through traditional methods cause deforestation with high water and energy consumption, biotechnological production processes minimize environmental impacts by using renewable resources. Biomimetic ingredients, especially those produced through fermentation and cell culture technologies, both reduce natural resource consumption and create a sustainable raw material source. The cosmetics sector can both reduce the pressure on the ecosystem and develop environmentally friendly formulations by providing water and energy efficiency by using these innovative ingredients. Biotechnological raw materials, which replace traditional ingredients, are an important step in the sector's fight against climate change and accelerate the transition to sustainable production models. Assets Obtained through Sustainable Agriculture Sustainable agriculture is a production model that protects soil health, uses water resources efficiently, and minimizes the use of synthetic chemicals. The herbal active ingredients obtained through this method support biodiversity while also reducing the carbon footprint in production. For example, herbal oils, extracts, and antioxidant components produced through organic farming have a lower environmental impact compared to synthetic alternatives. Sustainable agricultural practices are also of great importance for the cosmetics sector because the active ingredients used in herbal cosmetic products are produced without harming nature, contributing to the reduction of the ecological footprint of brands. Laboratory-Produced Innovative Ingredients (Fermented Substances) With the development of biotechnology, fermented ingredients and biomimetic raw materials produced in laboratory environments offer a much more sustainable alternative compared to traditional methods. Fermentation technology allows the production of vitamins, antioxidants and skin-renewing ingredients using microorganisms. This method minimizes the use of agricultural resources while also greatly reducing water consumption. The cosmetics industry is increasingly adopting ingredients such as probiotics, enzymes and amino acids produced from fermented ingredients. This both increases the bioavailability of products and prevents the depletion of traditional raw material resources, creating a sustainable production process. Biodiversity Loss and Cosmetic Formulations Biodiversity and cosmetics can be considered two concepts that are difficult to bring together. Biodiversity is one of the most important elements that maintain the health and balance of ecosystems. However, due to global warming, habitat destruction, excessive agricultural production and industrial activities, many plant and animal species are in danger of extinction. The cosmetics industry is directly affected by biodiversity loss due to production processes based on herbal extracts, natural oils and biologically active ingredients and can be one of the factors that accelerate this loss. The sector's shift towards formulations that are less harmful to nature by using sustainable ingredients and local resources can contribute to the protection of biodiversity. Endangered Plant Species and Alternative Contents Some plant raw materials commonly used in the cosmetic industry have become endangered species due to over-consumption and habitat loss. For example, sandalwood (Santalum album) is in high demand for its essential oil, leading to the extinction of its natural populations. Similarly, ginseng (Panax ginseng), known for its antioxidant and anti-aging properties, threatens ecosystem balance due to over-harvesting. Unsustainable collection of these species accelerates biodiversity loss and damages ecological systems. As a solution to this problem, there is an increasing tendency towards biotechnological and synthetic alternative ingredients. For example, biomimetic essential oils produced by fermentation in a laboratory environment can be used instead of sandalwood oil. Instead of ginseng, fermented green tea extract with similar antioxidant properties or seaweed-based active ingredients are added to the formulations to develop solutions that are less harmful to nature. In addition, hyaluronic acid and microalgae-based biotechnological ingredients provide a sustainable alternative in the cosmetics sector by providing high levels of nourishment and skin rejuvenation effects without depleting natural resources. The conscious steps taken by the industry in this direction will both support ecological sustainability by ensuring the protection of endangered plants and offer consumers environmentally friendly product options. The Importance of Local Sourcing Local sourcing is an approach that encourages sustainable production, reduces carbon footprint and supports regional economies. While dependence on the global supply chain causes high carbon emissions in logistics processes, the use of local resources minimizes this impact and increases environmental sustainability. Turkey has significant potential in terms of sustainable cosmetic raw materials with its rich flora and natural resources. For example, Isparta rose (Rosa damascena) is a world-famous ingredient and is used in the production of rose oil and rose water, increasing the income of local farmers while providing an ecosystem-friendly alternative. Similarly, olive oil and bay leaf extract grown in the Aegean and Mediterranean regions are among the sustainable ingredients used in natural cosmetics and soap production. Ethical and sustainable processing of such local raw materials both reduces environmental impact and helps protect Türkiye's biodiversity. In addition, propolis, lavender oil and black cumin oil, traditionally used in Anatolia, offer environmentally friendly alternatives to imported chemical ingredients and encourage sustainable production in the cosmetics sector. Conscious use of local resources will both protect the ecological balance and increase Türkiye's competitiveness in the global market by increasing its sustainable production capacity. Adopting sustainable production and consumption habits has become an inevitable necessity in the fight against climate change. Strategies such as energy efficiency, use of renewable energy, protection of water resources and support of biodiversity are the basic elements of ensuring environmental sustainability. In particular, the cosmetics sector should adopt sustainable solutions such as biotechnological raw materials, fermented ingredients and production based on local resources in order to reduce its ecological footprint. In addition, consumers' orientation towards environmentally friendly products will accelerate the sustainable transformation process. Implementing sustainability principles on a global scale will not only provide economic and environmental benefits, but will also be an effective solution in minimizing the negative effects of climate change. As ya da multicosmetics; Our greatest sensitivity is to leave a livable world for future generations. We aim to make sustainability an indispensable part of the cosmetics industry by developing innovative and environmentally friendly solutions in the production of our products. The basic principles of our sustainability policy are shaped around protecting nature. We pay attention to the protection of natural resources when choosing the raw materials of our products. Within the framework of our philosophy , we attach importance to the respectful use of natural and herbal extracts. We consider environmental compatibility both in raw material production and in post-use waste. We observe the sensitivity of nature with recyclable and sustainable packaging and carbon-free production. In this way, you can gift yourself climate-friendly skin care with 'ya da' skin care products without harming nature. Our world is more fragile than we think. Making nature the basis of production and consumption is no longer a choice, it is a necessity. We can remain silent and turn a blind eye to climate change OR we can adopt the principle of sustainability and leave a hopeful future. The choice is ours! SOURCE IPCC (2022) - Climate Change 2022: Impacts, Adaptation, and Vulnerability. Cambridge University Press. NASA (2023) - Global Climate Change: Vital Signs of the Planet. NASA Earth Observatory. IEA (2023) - Energy Efficiency 2023 Report. International Energy Agency. UNEP (2023) - Sustainable Consumption and Production in the Beauty Industry. United Nations Environment Programme. UNEP (2023) - Plastic Pollution and Waste Management in the Cosmetics Industry. OECD (2023) - Bio-Based Economy and Sustainable Resource Management. Organization for Economic Co-operation and Development. OECD (2023) - Sustainable Water Use and Circular Economy Strategies. OECD (2023) - Sustainable Resource Management and Local Sourcing Strategies. FAO (2023) - Sustainable Agriculture and Biodiversity in the Mediterranean Region. European Environment Agency (2022) - Environmental Impact of the Beauty and Personal Care Industry in Europe. PBES (2023) - Global Assessment Report on Biodiversity and Ecosystem Services. IUCN (2023) - The Red List of Threatened Species and Plant Conservation Strategies. WMO (2023) - State of the Global Climate 2023. World Meteorological Organization.
Learn moreEffects of UVB Filters on the Endocrine System: What Should We Know?
UVB filters, which are widely used to protect against the harmful effects of sunlight, are one of the main ingredients of sunscreens. However, in recent years, scientific research has increased on the potential effects of these chemicals on the endocrine system. The effects of UVB filters on hormonal balance, thyroid function and reproductive health are being investigated. In this article, we will discuss scientific information about the effects of UVB filters on the body, their relationship with the endocrine system and safe alternatives. What Are UVB Filters? UVB filters are chemical or physical compounds that protect the skin by absorbing or reflecting the sun's harmful ultraviolet B (UVB) rays. Chemical UVB filters are usually composed of compounds such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, and homosalate, while physical filters contain mineral-based ingredients such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. Chemical Structures and Areas of Use Chemical UVB filters are organic compounds that absorb sunlight and convert it into heat after being applied to the skin. These filters are found in many cosmetic products, such as sunscreens, makeup, and moisturizers. Physical filters protect by physically reflecting sunlight and are often recommended for sensitive skin or children. Effects of UVB Filters on the Body These filters, also known as physical filters, are particles that scatter and reflect UV rays back through the skin into the environment. They act as a physical barrier to trap ultraviolet and UV light. The most commonly used particulate mineral filters are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. They are considered broad spectrum because they cover the entire ultraviolet spectrum. Inorganic sunscreens are also called sunscreens, a term derived from their light protection mechanism. The ONLY UV filters approved by the FDA are Zinc Oxide and Titanium di Oxide. Green algae slow down photosynthesis and growth), causing a decrease in biomass. Dolphins accumulate in tissues such as the liver and can pass to children through the placenta and breast milk. Coral accumulates in reef tissues and causes coral bleaching, damages DNA and deforms children; destroys zooxanthellae, leading to death. Mussels accumulate in lipids and other tissues, causing defects in children. Sea Urchins damage the reproductive and immune systems. They cause deformation in children. Fish reduce fertility and reproduction, impair brain and liver functions, stimulate vitellogenin protein production, exhibit estrogenic activity, alter gene transcripts, cause cardiorespiratory stress, lead to neurotoxicity, cause immune system disorders and oxidative stress. Humans, estrogenic activity, antiandrogenic activity, uterotrophic activity, potential developmental and reproductive toxicity, induction of apoptosis, inflammatory response. Dermal Absorption Mechanism Chemical UVB filters can be absorbed by the skin and enter the bloodstream. Research shows that some UVB filters can bioaccumulate in the body and that their levels in the blood increase with long-term sunscreen use. Chemical (Organic) Filters: Reduces the harmful effects of UV energy by converting it into heat energy and absorbing it, reducing the depth at which it can penetrate the skin. Organic sunscreens work primarily through this mechanism by mixing into the blood. Mineral (Inorganic) Filters: Scattering and reflection of UV energy from the skin surface. Mineral based (Inorganic sunscreens mainly work with this mechanism.) They provide a coating that prevents the sun's rays from passing through the skin. Relationship between SPF value and protection: People often assume that applying SPF 50 sunscreen provides almost twice the protection as applying SPF 15. This is not true, because the extra protection provided by a higher SPF value is negligible after SPF 15. SPF 50 sunscreen blocks 98 percent of UVB rays, while SPF 30 sunscreen blocks 97 percent of sunburn rays - the difference is one percentage point. The internationally accepted thickness of SPF application to the SKIN is 2 mg/cm2 (USA) or 1.5 g/cm2 (EU). Importance of Bioaccumulation Bioaccumulation refers to the accumulation of chemicals in the body over time. The detection of substances such as oxybenzone in breast milk and urine in particular raises concerns about the potential health effects of long-term exposure. It shows the main human systems and marine organisms that suffer from the adverse effects of UV filter toxicity. Regarding organic UV filters, some reports have proven their presence in biological samples such as urine and blood samples, especially benzophenone and cinnamate derivatives. Additionally, many organic UV filters have been reported in collected marine samples, namely: homosalate (algae and brine shrimp); benzophenone-1 (algae) and benzophenone-3 (corals and algae); avobenzone (algae, crustaceans and brine shrimp); EHMC (fish and mussels); octocrylene (brine shrimp, crustaceans and mussels); PABA (mussels) and camphor derivatives (fish). Growth inhibition was one of the adverse effects affecting algal organisms, namely Tetraselmis sp. ZnO nanoparticles are widely used in sunscreens and UV protectors. Unlike larger particles, nanoparticles can easily pass through the skin and biological membranes, thus penetrating various cells, tissues and organs. When mixed with the blood, they can circulate throughout the body and reach vital organs and tissues. According to the hypothesis, high amounts of nanoparticles entering the body trigger stress reactions by creating an overload in the phagocyte cells of the immune system. This can lead to inflammation and weaken the body's defense mechanisms. In addition, the chemical reactivity of nanoparticles can increase the formation of free radicals, causing damage to proteins, cell membranes and DNA. DNA damage can lead to mutations and trigger cancer development. However, the toxicity of nanomaterials and their long-term effects on the organism have not yet been fully determined and the current information is at a hypothetical level. In order to understand the possible effects of nanomaterials on the ecosystem, extensive research needs to be conducted on wastewater, drinking and utility water, surface water, soil, air and plants. Relationship Between the Endocrine System and UVB Filters Some UVB filters are classified as endocrine disrupting chemicals (EDCs). Endocrine disruptors can alter the body's natural hormone balance by interfering with the hormonal system. Benzophenone-3 (oxybenzone) is a broad-spectrum UV filter that absorbs UVB (290-320 nm) and UVA (320-340 nm) rays. It is widely used in sunscreens, hair sprays, and colored cosmetics. There are many studies that it can cause allergic reactions, endocrine disrupting effects, and environmental damage. Initially, it was permitted to be used up to 10% in sunscreens in Turkey and the EU, but this limit was reduced to 6% in 2017. The FDA also determined this rate as 6%, and its use was banned in Hawaii. In a study conducted in the US between 2003-2012, benzophenone-3 was detected in the urine of 96.8% of volunteers. Higher concentrations were found in women and high-income individuals. While 0.4% of benzophenone-3 was detected in urine 48 hours after the application of sunscreens, another study showed that the dermal absorption rate was 2%. Benzophenone-3 is rapidly absorbed from the skin and reaches maximum plasma levels within 4 hours. Since its molecular weight is 228.26 Da, it can easily cross the skin barrier. Similarly, benzophenone-8 is rapidly absorbed from the skin. However, it has been found that by synthesizing dioxybenzone in polymer form, skin penetration decreases and the same level of UV protection is provided. The Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development (OECD) has published a document containing standardised tests to assess potential endocrine disrupting chemicals. Accordingly, potential endocrine disruption by UV filters has already been reported in biological samples, namely placenta and human sperm. Witorsch et al. (2010) mentioned the adverse effect of some classes of compounds, including UV filters that penetrate skin layers; however, this study highlighted that serum and reproductive hormone levels were not affected by this exposure. Recently in 2016, Rehfeld et al. studied the in vitro effect of UV filters on male fertility, assuming the possibility that UV filters mimic progesterone, considering that both the hormone and the UV filter can interfere with Ca2+ channel signaling and consequently activate certain biological processes. Various research groups have reported other adverse effects of UV filters using in vivo models such as rats, insects, fish, among others. Estrogenic, androgenic, and thyroid activities are included in the endocrine disrupting effects of UV filters. Effects on Hormone Balance UVB filters such as oxybenzone and octinoxate have been shown to interact with the hormones estrogen and androgen. This can disrupt hormonal balance and pose potential health risks. Various organic UV filters are absorbed systemically and therefore may affect endocrine processes, therefore they are classified as endocrine active chemicals (EACs) [ 49 ]. Some of the more relevant UV filters are benzophenones or those derived from cinnamates or camphor. Changes in Thyroid Functions Some studies suggest that UVB filters may have thyroid hormone-disrupting effects. Specifically, they may interfere with the mechanisms that regulate the production and metabolism of thyroid hormones, increasing the risk of hypothyroidism or hyperthyroidism. Animal Studies: UV filters such as BP-3, OMC and 4-MBC have been found to have effects on thyroid hormones in various animal models. BP-3 and OMC demonstrated thyroid receptor-mediated transcriptional activation in vitro. 4-MBC increased TSH and decreased thyroxine (T4) levels by reducing iodine uptake in rats. OMC decreased T3 levels and TSH receptor expression. 4-MBC was observed to increase thyroid weight in both parent and offspring mice. Although some studies have shown changes in thyroid hormone levels in animals exposed to UV filters, the functional effects of these changes are not always clear. Human Studies: The study by Janjua et al suggested that UV filters do not disrupt the homeostasis of human thyroid hormones. Other studies (case-control, cohort, and cross-sectional) have not found a significant or consistent association between BP-3 and thyroid hormone levels. Overall Result: UV filters can be taken into the body through environmental exposure or topical use. It has been shown to affect hormonal pathways in animal studies, but human data are inconclusive. The effects of UV filters on the human endocrine system are still unclear and further research is needed. Effects on Reproductive Health It is thought that some UVB filters may have negative effects on reproductive health due to their endocrine disrupting effects. It is suggested that they may reduce sperm quality, especially in men, and affect fertility by causing hormonal imbalances in women. Effects on Pregnancy and Development: Santamaria et al. (2020): BP-3 taken via dermal absorption during pregnancy caused intrauterine growth retardation, change in sex ratio and deterioration in the growth chart of the offspring. Downs et al. (2015): BP-3 exposure decreased body weight, increased prostate weight by 30%, and led to a significant increase in uterine weight in childhood in mice. Overall Result: BP-3 can disrupt hormone balance by exhibiting estrogenic and anti-androgenic effects. Mouse and fish studies suggest that BP-3 may have adverse effects on the reproductive system and development. Long-term effects on humans are unclear, but should be evaluated carefully due to its endocrine disrupting potential. Groups at Risk Pregnant Women and Developing Fetuses: UVB filters (e.g. benzophenone-3, octinoxate, 4-MBC) can cross the placenta and reach the fetus. Intrauterine growth retardation, changes in sex ratio, and hormonal imbalances have been observed. Babies and Children: Because their hormonal systems are still developing, they may be more affected by estrogenic and anti-androgenic effects. There are risks of early puberty, developmental disorders and weakened immune systems. Women and Men of Reproductive Age: It can disrupt the balance of estrogen and androgen, which can lead to negative effects on fertility. It can lower testosterone levels in men and cause an increase in prostate weight. In women, menstrual irregularities and effects on the reproductive system may occur. People with Hormonal Imbalance or Endocrine Disease: Those with thyroid diseases, polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS), diabetes and other endocrine diseases may be more sensitive to the hormonal effects of UVB filters. Individuals Who Use Heavy Sunscreen (Especially Daily Users and Athletes): Frequent use of sunscreens and skin care products containing UVB filters can cause high levels of absorption through the skin. Those who spend long periods of time in the sea or pool may be exposed to the environmental effects of UV filters and thus pose an additional risk. Things to Consider During Pregnancy The content of the sunscreen is of great importance when using sunscreen during pregnancy. It has been shown that endocrine disrupting chemicals such as oxybenzone can cross the placental barrier and have an effect on the fetus. Therefore, it is recommended that pregnant women prefer mineral-based sunscreens. Use in Children Children should be careful about sunscreen use because their skin barrier is more permeable than adults, and they may be more exposed to chemical UVB filters. Therefore, it is a safer option to choose mineral-based sunscreens for children. Safe Alternatives Safe alternatives can be preferred to chemical UVB filters, which are thought to have negative effects on the endocrine system. Mineral-based filters: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide should be preferred as safer sunscreens. Mineral Based Preservatives Sunscreens containing zinc oxide and titanium dioxide reflect sunlight by creating a protective barrier on the skin's surface. It is known that these minerals are not absorbed by the skin and do not affect the endocrine system. Natural UV Filters Some plant oils, multicosmetic solutions , and extracts may have natural sunscreen properties. For example, carrot seed oil and raspberry seed oil may naturally provide low SPF values. However, since they do not offer as strong protection as traditional sunscreens, extra precautions should be taken. Conscious Use Suggestions Avoid prolonged and excessive use of sunscreens containing chemical filters. Choose mineral-based sunscreens for children and pregnant women. When using daily sunscreen, check for ingredients that may have a negative effect on the endocrine system. Look for safe, natural sunscreens that do not contain UVB filters. Instead of relying solely on sunscreen to protect yourself from the sun, use physical protection methods such as hats and long-sleeved clothing. Conclusion Although UVB filters play an important role in protecting against harmful sun rays, the possible effects of some chemical filters on the endocrine system should be considered. Safer sunscreens should be preferred, especially for children and pregnant women. Mineral-based sunscreens and natural filters are more reliable options in terms of protecting skin health and not affecting hormonal balance. SOURCE: Jesus, Ana et al. “UV Filters: Challenges and Prospects.” Pharmaceuticals (Basel, Switzerland) vol. 15.3 263. 22 Feb. 2022, doi:10.3390/ph15030263 Yang, Changwon et al. “Avobenzone suppresses proliferative activity of human trophoblast cells and induces apoptosis mediated by mitochondrial disruption.” Reproductive toxicology (Elmsford, NY) vol. 81 (2018): 50-57. doi:10.1016/j.reprotox.2018.07.003 Schlumpf, Margret et al. “Developmental toxicity of UV filters and environmental exposure: a review.” International journal of andrology vol. 31.2 (2008): 144-51. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2605.2007.00856.x Guan, Linna L et al. “Sunscreens and Photoaging: A Review of Current Literature.” American journal of clinical dermatology vol. 22.6 (2021): 819-828. doi:10.1007/s40257-021-00632-5 Krause, M et al. “Sunscreens: are they beneficial for health? An overview of endocrine disrupting properties of UV-filters.” International journal of andrology vol. 35.3 (2012): 424-36. doi:10.1111/j.1365-2605.2012.01280.x Breakell, Thomas et al. “Ultraviolet Filters: Dissecting Current Facts and Myths.” Journal of clinical medicine vol. 13,10 2986. 19 May. 2024, doi:10.3390/jcm13102986 ÜNER, DR MELİKE, and İMRAN ALTIOKKA. "RELIABILITY AND COSMETOVIGILANCE IN COSMETICS." Berardesca, E et al. “Review of the safety of octocrylene used as an ultraviolet filter in cosmetics.” Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology: JEADV vol. 33 Suppl 7 (2019): 25-33. doi:10.1111/jdv.15945 PEKCAN, AHMET NEZİHİ. "DESIGN OF VARIOUS DERMAL FORMULATIONS FOR MELASMA TREATMENT." GÜLER, Ülker Aslı, Eliza Tuncel, and MEhtap ERŞAN. "Toxicology of Nanomaterials." ÜNAL, İdil, and Ayda ACAR. "Sun Protection." Turkish Clinics Cosmetic Dermatology Special Journal 11.2 (2018). SARAY, Yasemin, and Deniz DUMAN. "Current Information and Developments on Sunscreens." Turkish Clinics Cosmetic Dermatology Special Journal 8.4 (2015). Ertekin, KADR İ. YE "Cosmetic chemicals and their interactions with the endocrine system." CHAIRMAN, Emel BÜLBÜL. "Reliability, Undesirable Effects and Side Effects of Sunscreens." Turkiye Klinikleri Cosmetic Dermatology-Special Topics 3.2 (2010): 62-69. Sarı, Canan. "The Relationship Between Personal Care and Cosmetic Product Use During Pregnancy and Fetal Health." Turkish Journal of Family Medicine and Primary Care 15.3 (2021): 633-638.
Learn moreNail Problems: Causes and Professional Solutions
Nail problems can be listed as nail peeling, nail cracks, dry nail and nail breakage. They are usually caused by dryness and moisture loss, improper nail cutting, chemicals, vitamin deficiency, fungal and bacterial infections. Solution suggestions for such problems include moisturizing, nail care products, correct manicure techniques, protection from chemicals, vitamin supplements and medical treatment. Nail Anatomy The cuticle anatomy includes a tissue structure that protects the nail and surrounding tissues. Parts of the nail anatomy: 1. Nail Plate: It is the visible, hard part of the nail. It is made up of a protein called keratin. Underneath is the nail bed. 2. Nail Matrix: It is the area where the cells that enable the nail to grow are produced. It is located just above the finger bone. The light-colored half-moon-shaped lunula or half-moon at the base of the nail is the only visible part of the matrix. The nail grows from here and damage can cause permanent deformities. 3. Nail Bed: It is the sensitive vascular area just under the nail plate. It gives the nail its pink color. The nail plate is firmly attached here. 4. Eponychium (Cuticle): It is the thin layer of skin at the base of the nail. It protects the nail and matrix from bacteria and external factors. Excessive cutting can cause infections. 5. Hyponychium: It is a thin layer of skin located just below the free edge of the nail plate. It forms a barrier against infection by covering the underside of the nail. 6. Paronychium: The soft tissue on the sides of the nail. This area is prone to inflammation and infections called "paronychia" are often seen here. Characteristics of Healthy Cuticles It should be pink or pale pink in color: The cuticles should be a natural pink color, and there should be no color changes such as paleness or bruising. It should be moist and flexible: Dry, hard or peeling cuticles are unhealthy. Healthy cuticles have a soft and flexible texture. Must be neat and intact: There should be no peeling, cracking or excessive retraction. If the cuticles are constantly cracking or breaking, this may be a sign of vitamin deficiency or irritation from external factors. There should be no inflammation, redness or swelling: If there is any swelling, tenderness or redness around the nail edge, this could be a sign of infection. It should be painless and tender: There should be no pain or ache when you touch the cuticles. The cuticle structure must be smooth: Cuticles should be slightly adherent and thin to protect the nail bed. Excessively hardened or retracted cuticles can negatively affect nail health. Main Causes of Nail Problems Environmental Factors Moisture and Dryness Imbalance Excessive exposure to water: When hands are frequently exposed to water, the cuticles become soft and easily irritated. Detergents and chemicals: Cleaning products, soaps and disinfectants can dry out the cuticles and cause them to crack. Weather Conditions Cold weather: Low temperatures and wind dry out the skin and cuticles, causing cracking. Hot and dry weather: Causes moisture loss, which can cause the cuticles to harden and peel. Nutritional Deficiencies Nutritional deficiencies that lead to nail problems are often caused by vitamin and mineral deficiencies. Here are the most common deficiencies and their effects on the nails: 1. Biotin (Vitamin B7) Deficiency: Causes the nails to weaken, dry and crack. 2. Vitamin A Deficiency: Causes the skin and nails to dry, become sensitive and crack. 3. Vitamin C Deficiency: As it reduces collagen production, it leads to weakening of the cuticles, bleeding and slowing down of the healing process. 4. Vitamin E Deficiency: It dries out the cuticles, causing cracking and irritation. 5. Iron Deficiency: Causes the cuticles to become pale, dry and sensitive. Nails may also become thin and break. 6. Zinc Deficiency: Causes the cuticles to peel, heal slowly and become irritated. 7. Omega-3 Deficiency: It dries the skin and cuticles, causing cracks. 8. Protein Deficiency: Causes the cuticles to become weak and prone to irritation. 9. Dehydration: It causes the body's moisture balance to be lost, which causes the cuticles to dry out, harden and crack. Wrong Care Habits Instilling the habit of protecting your cuticles from an early age can put aside issues that will cause problems throughout your life. Picking or Biting Cuticles: Picking or biting your cuticles increases the risk of infection and inflammation. It can create open wounds, which can lead to bacterial or fungal infections. Overcutting Cuticles: Cuticles are a natural barrier that protects nails from infection. Cutting too much can cause irritation and infection. Deep cuts can cause bleeding and pain. Using Unhygienic Tools: Using unsterilized nail clippers or meat tweezers increases the risk of infection. Shared manicure tools can cause fungal or bacterial infection. Excessive and Harsh Manicure Practices: Pushing the cuticles too hard or filing them hard can cause irritation. Chemical-based nail polish removers and harsh manicure products can dry out the cuticles. Chemical Exposure: Nail polish removers that contain strong solvents like acetone dry out the cuticles and cause irritation. Handling detergents and cleaning materials without gloves can cause the cuticles to wear down. Not Moisturizing Enough: Unmoisturized cuticles dry out, crack, and become sensitive. Especially people who wash their hands frequently or are exposed to cold weather should moisturize regularly. Continuous use of gel or acrylic nails: UV lamps and artificial nail applications can dry out and weaken the cuticles. Improper removal procedures can damage the cuticles. Nail Biting Habits Nail biting (onychophagia) is the unconscious biting and tearing of one's nails and sometimes cuticles, usually due to stress, anxiety, distress or habit. It usually begins in childhood and continues into adulthood in some people. The main harms of nail biting are: Nail and Cuticle Damage Nails become deformed: Constant biting causes nails to look irregular and ugly. Cuticles become irritated: When cuticles are torn, open wounds can form, increasing the risk of infection. Nail growth disorders: When the nail root is damaged, the nail may grow unhealthily and irregularly. Risk of Infection Bacterial and fungal infections: Bacteria found in the mouth can infect the nail and cause inflammation (such as a nail infection called paronychia). Wart and fungal formation: Nail biting can lead to the transmission of viruses (such as HPV) to the nail area. Risk Factors That May Cause Nail Problems Seasonal Effects In the winter months, the cold weather causes dryness, cracking, and peeling of the cuticles. In the summer months, the increase in temperature can cause discomfort such as sweating, fungus, and infection in the cuticles. Finally, in the spring months, the most important factor is allergic reactions. Such reactions can cause itching, dryness, and peeling of the cuticles. Occupational Exposure In occupational groups that are exposed to chemicals a lot (hairdressers, beauticians, cleaning workers), constantly exposing the hands to these conditions can cause dryness and irritation in the cuticles. Another risk factor is that the cuticles of people who do physical and mechanical work can be exposed to violence or irritation. Hand Hygiene Products The substances we use while paying attention to hygiene can damage our hands, nails and cuticles due to their content. These can be alcohol-based disinfectants, antibacterial soaps, use of latex gloves and creams and lotions containing harsh chemicals. Using such products can cause problems such as serious dryness, cracking and wound formation in the cuticles. Nail Treatment Some of the most important steps in preventing cuticle problems are practicing proper hand care, creating a moisturizing routine, and using appropriate protective products. Proper Cuticle Care Hand care usually starts with a manicure. The biggest mistake made here is cutting the cuticles. Instead, they should be pushed back. The tools used should be personalized and sterile. Otherwise, it can cause fungus and infection. Another thing is that instead of chemicals such as nail polish removers, hand care can be completed with products that are purer in content and will not irritate the skin. Using a cuticle moisturizer should be considered the safest of all possible care. Moisturizing Routine Creating a moisturizing routine is very important in eliminating dryness in the cuticles. This routine can be created with moisturizers suitable for the skin every day. Especially in the winter months, since there may be extra cracking and dryness in cold weather, the routine can be supported with intensive moisturizers. Use of Protective Products To prevent dryness of the cuticles, appropriate moisturizers, cuticle oils, and cuticle softening products can be used. In daily life, gloves containing nitrile or cotton products can be used instead of latex to protect hands at work. Gentle hand soaps and alcohol-free products should be used to prevent the cuticles from losing moisture. Natural nail care Nail problems can be treated with natural methods. Some of these include regularly using nutritious oils and vitamin supplements. Nourishing Oils Applying a few drops of valuable fixed oils such as almond oil, coconut oil, olive oil or jojoba oil to the nails and cuticles at night helps to treat nail breakage , nail breakage, nail crack treatment and nail dryness. Nail care pen, a very valuable solution from an expert in this regard, is with you. Thanks to its fixed oils, rich minerals and easy use, it prevents problems such as dryness, breakage and peeling of the cuticles. It is very important to check if the nail care products contain hormone disruptors, harmful chemicals and carcinogenic substances and to get into the habit of reading labels. These products, which are used from a young age, can cause various blockages especially in acupuncture points, as they are areas with intense blood flow. Vitamin Supplements Water should be consumed at least 2 liters a day as the most important vitamin. It is very important in addition to moisturizers used to maintain the body's moisture balance. Apart from this, Biotin (vitamin B7), vitamin E, vitamin C, vitamin A, vitamin D, zinc and iron are vitamins that can be used. Consuming foods that contain these vitamins in abundance in our daily nutrition habits will also help the treatment. Consuming rich foods such as eggs, almonds, olive oil and lemon is very important. SOURCE Jangra RS, Gupta S, Singal A, Kaushik A. Hangnail: A simple solution to a common problem. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2019;81(5):e123-e125. Relhan, Vineet et al. “Management of chronic paronychia.” Indian journal of dermatology vol. 59.1 (2014): 15-20. doi:10.4103/0019-5154.123482 Leggit JC. Acute and chronic paronychia. Am Fam Physician. 2017;96(1):44-51. PMID: 28671378 pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/28671378/.
Learn moreFighting Nail Fungus: Comprehensive Treatment and Prevention Methods
What is Nail Fungus? Nail fungus is an infection that occurs as a result of the proliferation of fungi under the nails. Medically known as onychomycosis, it is a health problem caused by fungi that usually settle in the bed under the nail. This infection manifests itself with various symptoms such as color change, thickening, and breakage in the nails. Nail fungus occurs when fungal infections in the skin spread to the nails, and this can negatively affect the person in terms of both aesthetics and health. It is evaluated differently from foot fungus. Although nail fungus is usually seen in the nails on the fingertips, it is more commonly observed in the toenails. Fungal infections can develop rapidly in areas of the body where there are moist and warm environments, which puts the toenails at greater risk. Feet are often moist due to sweating and closed shoes, which creates the perfect environment for the fungus to grow. It is very important to pay attention to nail fungus prevention methods and to support the nail fungus solution process with the right care practices. Nail Fungus Formation Mechanism The development of nail fungus begins with the proliferation of fungi that settle in the bed under the nail. Fungi multiply rapidly in warm and humid environments. These environments can be provided by factors such as sweaty shoes, damp socks, shared surfaces and closed areas. The surface of the nails and the skin around them provide a suitable ground for the fungus to enter. After entering the nail, the fungus affects the upper layer of the nail, causing it to turn yellow, thicken and break. Over time, the infection progresses, the nail tissue weakens and inflammation occurs. Nail fungus is most commonly seen in toenails, but it can also be seen in fingernails. Fungus that infects toenails tends to spread in moist areas, such as the heel and between the toes. Fungal infection gradually spreads to larger areas of the nail and can sometimes progress to complete nail loss. Risk Factors The risk of getting nail fungus increases with several factors. These factors are closely related to the person's general health, environmental conditions and individual habits. Here are some risk factors that can lead to nail fungus: Individuals with a Weak Immune System: Individuals with a weak immune system are more susceptible to fungal infections. Especially the elderly, diabetics, and people undergoing cancer treatment, as well as individuals with suppressed immune systems, can more easily contract nail fungus. Closed Shoes and Sweaty Feet: When feet sweat in closed shoes for a long time, it creates a suitable environment for fungi to grow. Sweaty shoes prevent feet from getting air, paving the way for the rapid spread of fungus. Walking in Common Areas: Damp areas such as gyms, swimming pools, and communal showers are places where fungi can spread quickly. Walking barefoot in such places increases the risk of infection. Nail Injuries: Small wounds, cracks or breaks on the nails provide an opportunity for the fungus to enter the nail. Such physical damage makes the nails more susceptible to fungal infection. Poor Hygiene Habits: Poor hygiene habits, such as not washing feet regularly, wearing damp shoes for long periods of time, or not taking care of nails, pave the way for the development of fungal infections. Nail Fungus Symptoms The symptoms of nail fungus may vary depending on the stage of the infection. While milder symptoms are seen in the early stages, the severity of the infection may increase in the later stages. Symptoms of nail fungus include: Early Symptoms Yellowing or white spots on the nail color Irregularities, small cracks or roughness on the nail surface Slight thickening or cracking Advanced Stage Symptoms Intense yellowing and noticeable thickening of the nail Deformity, peeling and splitting of the nail Inflammation, pain and tenderness around the nail Formation of bad odor Complete separation or falling of the nail If nail fungus is left untreated, these symptoms can worsen and make daily life difficult for the person. Early treatment is very important to prevent complications. Factors That Trigger Nail Fungus There are a number of factors that play a role in the development of nail fungus. These factors range from personal habits to environmental factors: Shoe Selection Closed and moisture-holding shoes cause feet to sweat. This creates a favorable environment for fungi to grow. In addition, shoes in the wrong size can put pressure on nails and increase the risk of infection. Immune System In people with a weak immune system, the body becomes less resistant to fungi, which leads to infections spreading more easily. Injuries and Traumas Physical trauma to the nails can trigger fungal infections. Small cuts, cracks, or wounds present an opportunity for infection to enter. Excessive Sweating Constantly moist feet provide the most suitable environment for the development of fungus. Sweat helps the fungus to reproduce and accelerates the spread of infection. Nail Fungus Treatment Methods There are many ways for those looking for a solution to nail fungus. These approaches may vary depending on the severity of the infection and personal preferences. Here are nail fungus remedies: Topical Treatment Methods Topical treatments can be effective in the early stages of nail fungus and in milder cases. In these treatments, antifungal medications are applied directly to the infected nail. Antifungal Creams and Gels: In cases of early stages of fungal infection, doctors usually recommend antifungal creams or gels. These products affect the part of the fungus that is on the surface of the nail. They usually need to be used regularly for 2-3 weeks. The active ingredients of these drugs can be substances such as clotrimazole, terbinafine and miconazole. Antifungal Sprays: Antifungal medications are also available in spray form against nail fungus. Sprays are especially suitable for use on toenails and can be applied frequently at different times of the day. Topical Antifungal Varnishes: Special antifungal varnishes can also be used to treat nail fungus. This treatment is less common but can be recommended as an effective option for treating nail fungus. This treatment requires long-term use (up to 6 months) for the varnish to dry on the nail and prevent the fungus from entering the nail. Advantages: Local treatment results in fewer side effects. The treatment process is usually shorter and less invasive. Disadvantages: It is only effective in early and limited infections. It may have limited effectiveness in penetrating deep into the nail. Oral (Systemic) Antifungal Drugs Oral antifungal medications are used in more advanced stages of nail fungus or in cases that do not respond to topical treatment. These medications treat the fungus internally in the body and are usually more powerful. Terbinafine (Lamisil): Terbinafine is one of the most commonly used oral antifungal medications for treating nail fungus. Terbinafine targets the cell membrane of the fungus, preventing the infection from spreading. The duration of treatment usually ranges from 6 to 12 weeks. Itraconazole (Sporanox): Itraconazole is another effective antifungal medication used for systemic treatment. In most cases, it requires regular use for 3 months. Itraconazole stops the spread of infection by inhibiting the growth of fungus. Fluconazole (Diflucan): Fluconazole is another oral antifungal medication used to treat nail fungus. This medication is usually taken once a week and may be treated for a shorter period of time (about 6 to 12 weeks). Advantages: It gives more effective results in deep infections. It is effective against more types of fungi thanks to its broad spectrum effects. Disadvantages: Potential side effects may occur (such as changes in liver function tests, stomach upset). It requires long-term use and the treatment process may be longer. Surgical intervention In advanced stages of nail fungus and in cases that do not respond to other treatment methods, surgical intervention may be required. In this procedure, the infected nail part is surgically removed or treated and cleaned. Complete Nail Removal: If the nail is severely damaged, doctors may sometimes recommend removing the nail entirely. This can help clear the infection and provide space for the nail to grow back healthy. However, this procedure is usually a last resort. Removing Nails with Chemical Treatment: Apart from surgical intervention, the nail can also be removed from the infected area with chemical treatments. Chemical substances can be applied to the nail surface and cause the nail to peel or fall off. Advantages: It offers an effective solution for advanced infections. Quick results can be obtained. Disadvantages: It can be a painful procedure. When the nail regrows, it can be time-consuming and sometimes problematic. Nail Fungus Natural Treatment Natural nail fungus treatment is one of the most researched topics lately. Especially herbal nail fungus treatment methods attract the attention of those looking for solutions with natural ingredients. Tea Tree Oil: Tea tree oil is known for its antifungal properties and is widely used as a natural fungal treatment. Apple Cider Vinegar: Apple cider vinegar has antiseptic properties and can be effective in treating nail fungus. Added to warm water, it makes a foot bath and provides foot care. Garlic: Garlic offers a natural treatment option against nail fungus as it has antibacterial and antifungal properties. For those looking for reliable and multicosmetic products in this regard, the Ya Da brand offers a nail care pen called LU'NAIL, enriched with walnut shell extract, fixed oils and minerals. This product is designed to provide both nail care and protection and has a special brush mechanism for ease of use. Nail Fungus Preventive Care Strategies Preventing nail fungus is possible with proper care habits. Here are the recommended strategies to prevent nail fungus: Pay Attention to Nail Hygiene: Washing the feet regularly, drying the areas between the toes thoroughly, and using antifungal soaps provide protection against nail fungus. Choosing the Right Socks: Choosing cotton socks allows your feet to breathe and helps absorb sweat. Nylon and synthetic socks should be avoided. Protection from Moisture: It is important to wear breathable shoes, avoid sweaty shoes, and use antifungal sprays to protect feet from moisture. Nail Care: Cutting nails short and neatly, keeping nails clean, and not sharing personal care tools with others reduces the risk of infection. Strengthening the Immune System: A healthy diet and regular exercise help strengthen the immune system and protect against fungal infections. Be Careful in Common Areas: Wearing slippers or sandals in humid areas such as gyms and pools and not sharing nail care tools with others reduces the risk of fungal infection. Source American Academy of Dermatology – Onychomycosis (Nail Fungus) “Onychomycosis: Diagnosis and Management” – Dermatologic Clinics (2018) Mayo Clinic – Onychomycosis Treatment “Nail Fungus” – Turkish Dermatology Association
Learn moreHomosalate and the Process of Banning Cosmetic Products: What You Need to Know
Sunlight is a source of energy for living things, necessary for the continuation of life, a major source of vitamin D, stimulating melanin production in the skin, having an antibacterial effect and an immune-boosting effect, as well as being an energy source that can cause acute and chronic harmful effects when exposed to the ultraviolet (UV) rays it emits for long periods of time and without protection (1,2). Sunscreens are one of the most effective ways to protect our skin from harmful UV rays. Sunscreens contain main components such as UV filters (chemical and physical filters) that protect against UV-A and UV-B Ye rays coming from the sun, preservatives and stabilizers such as PABA, antioxidants such as vitamin C or green tea extract, moisturizers and skin care ingredients, and fragrances (3). However, the effects of some chemicals contained in sunscreens on health are still being debated. In recent years, some UV filters have been banned or their use has been restricted in the European Union. One of these filters is homosalate, which is our topic. So, what is homosalate and why is it banned? Chemical Structure of Homosalate and Its Role in Sunscreens Homosalate (HMS) is a salicylate molecule commonly included in commercial sunscreen formulations to protect against the adverse effects of ultraviolet (UV) radiation exposure (4). It is listed on product labels as “Homosalate, Homomentyl salicylate, HMS, 3,3,5-trimethyl-cyclohexyl-salicylate, Salicylic acid M-homomentyl ester” (5). Chemical Properties and Function in Formulation Homosalate is a chemical filter known for its ability to absorb UVB rays. It is produced by the Fischer-Speier esterification of salicylic acid and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexanol (5). The salicylic acid part of the molecule protects the skin from sun damage by absorbing ultraviolet rays with wavelengths between 295 nm and 315 nm. The hydrophobic trimethylcyclohexyl group provides oiliness that prevents it from dissolving in water. For this reason, it is often used in water-resistant sunscreens. It has low photostability, meaning it can degrade and lose its protective power over time when exposed to the sun. For this reason, it is stabilized by combining it with other UV filters such as Octocrylene or Avobenzone. Since it does not provide sufficient sun protection on its own, it is usually found in broad-spectrum sunscreens (covering both UVA and UVB) with other filters (6). Homosalate also has emollient properties, which is why it is found in moisturizers, body lotions and after-sun care products, as well as sunscreens. It provides a smoother texture in sunscreens and makes them easier to apply. Mechanism of Action as a UV Filter Studies have shown that HMS undergoes a rapid chemical process called "ultrafast excited state proton transfer (ESIPT)" when exposed to light. During this process, HMS undergoes a structural transformation by absorbing energy and then dissipates this energy largely as heat, rendering it harmless. In addition, laser studies have determined that HMS has two different forms (conformers). One of these performs the ESIPT process, while the other does not. Overall, these studies show that HMS works effectively as a sunscreen and has favorable photophysical properties (4). Adverse Effects on the Endocrine System and Health Risks The endocrine system regulates the balance of hormones in our body, and even the smallest changes can have major effects on our health. Studies suggest that Homosalate can bind to estrogen, progesterone and androgen receptors in the body and that these interactions can find hormone levels. This can have negative effects, especially on reproductive health and thyroid function. It can also increase the risk of cancer and cause skin irritation and redness. Changes in Hormonal Balance In a study conducted on human cells, it was observed in in vitro experiments that 6 UV filters, including Homosalate, exhibited estrogenic activity by binding to estrogen receptors. Homosalate is a lipophilic (fat-soluble) compound, so it tended to accumulate in the environment and organisms. It has been found in fish and aquatic ecosystems and has been reported to carry potential long-term ecological risks. However, in in vivo tests conducted on a transgenic zebrafish model, it was determined that Homosalate exhibited significant estrogenic activity. The general conclusion of the study is that UV filters tend to accumulate in the environment and could potentially have long-term effects. Therefore, it was emphasized that Homosalate and other UV filters should be further investigated in terms of their hormone disrupting effects (7). In addition, it was determined that human breast cancer cells, which grow and proliferate under the influence of estrogen, showed 3.5 times more growth and proliferation as a result of exposure to Homosalate (8). Effects on Reproductive Health and Clinical Findings Studies have shown that Homosalate suppresses androgen receptors, which can affect the reproductive system. In particular, another study has indicated that this chemical may be linked to female infertility, endometriosis, and polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) (9). Homosalate can cross the placenta during pregnancy and have negative effects on trophoblast cells. Normal proliferation and invasion of trophoblast cells are critical for placental development; however, homosalate can suppress the proliferation of these cells and cause placental vascular restructuring. This can lead to pregnancy complications such as spontaneous abortion and intrauterine growth retardation. In addition, homosalate has estrogenic activity, affecting the endocrine system, and has been detected in breast milk and placental tissues. Although homosalate, which mixes with the blood through products such as sunscreens, has the potential to be transmitted to the fetus, it has been stated that more research is needed to understand the exact effects of this substance on pregnancy (9). International Cosmetic Regulations and Reasons for Bans The main reason for the ban on homosalate is that it should not be considered a safe cosmetic ingredient. The European Union has determined that this substance poses a health risk and harms the environment when used above a certain dose and has restricted it. Its negative effects on the marine ecosystem in particular have been proven by scientific studies. While research on homosalate continues in countries such as the USA, experts advise consumers to turn to safer alternatives. EU Cosmetics Regulation Changes With the recent changes to the European Union (EU) Cosmetics Regulation, the use of homosalate in cosmetic products has been re-regulated. The Scientific Committee (SCCS) has determined that homosalate is not safe to use as a UV filter at concentrations up to 10%, considering its potential endocrine disrupting properties, and this substance is only considered safe to use in facial products (non-spray and pump spray products) up to a maximum concentration of 7.34%. This regulation aims to limit the use of homosalate in other cosmetic products and to increase consumer safety. These changes were announced on November 11, 2022 and entered into force on January 1, 2025 (10,11). Legal Regulations and Adaptation Process in the Global Market With the entry into force of these changes, a transition period of 24 months has been determined for new products to be launched on the market and 30 months for existing products to comply. In this context, the Turkish Medicines and Medical Devices Agency (TİTCK) has also started to update national cosmetic legislation to be compatible with the EU Cosmetics Regulation. In October 2022, the European Commission reduced the maximum permitted concentration of homosalate in body sunscreens from 10% to 0.5%. The Canadian Ministry of Health accepts homosalate as safe but is following developments in the EU. The Australian Therapeutic Goods Administration (TGA) accepts homosalate and allows its use up to 10%. The FDA has not evaluated homosalate on the GREASE (Generally Recognized As Safe and Effective) list and is requesting more safety data and is currently allowed to use up to a maximum of 15% (12, 13). Some alternatives that are considered safer to replace homosalate have become more popular. These are; mineral-based sunscreens such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. They provide physical protection instead of chemical filters and offer a safer alternative. Mexoryl SX and Tinosorb S are shown as safer options with fewer endocrine disrupting properties (12,14). In conclusion, considering the potential risks of homosalate, it would be a safer choice, especially for pregnant women, children and individuals with sensitive skin, to prefer sunscreens that do not contain homosalate, are mineral-based or contain low-risk chemical filters, both to protect skin health and to avoid long-term health risks. While sun protection is vital, the content of the products used should be evaluated as carefully as the protection factor. Therefore, it is of great importance to make a conscious choice when choosing sunscreens, which are one of the skin care products . References: Gül, Ü. (2012). Environmental Factors Affecting Skin Aging. Turkey Clinics Dermatology-Special Topics, 5(4), 1-6. Slevin, T. (Ed.). (2014). Sun, skin and health. Csiro Publishing. Cancer Council. Western Australia. TEKBAŞ, Ö. F., Didem, EVC İ., & ÖZCAN, UDU AN INCREASING DANGER WITH THE APPROACHING SUMMER SEASON: ULTRAVIOLET RAYS FROM THE SUN. Holt, EL, Krokidi, K.M., Turner, MA, Mishra, P., Zwier, TS, Rodrigues, NDN, & Stavros, V.G. (2020). Insights into the photoprotection mechanism of the UV filter homosalate. Physical Chemistry Chemical Physics, 22(27), 15509-15519. Homosalate, ChemIDplus. Wong, NG, Rankine, CD, Anstöter, CS, & Dessent, CE (2022). Photostability of the deprotonated forms of the UV filters homosalate and octyl salicylate: molecular dissociation versus electron detachment following UV excitation. Physical Chemistry Chemical Physics, 24(28), 17068-17076. Schreurs, R., Lanser, P., Seinen, W., & van der Burg, B. (2002). Estrogenic activity of UV filters determined by an in vitro reporter gene assay and an in vivo transgenic zebrafish assay. Archives of toxicology, 76, 257-261. Jiménez-Díaz, I., Molina-Molina, J.M., Zafra-Gómez, A., Ballesteros, O., Navalón, A., Real, M., ... & Olea, N. (2013). Simultaneous determination of the UV-filters benzyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, homosalate, 3-(4-methylbenzylidene) camphor and 3-benzylidene camphor in human placental tissue by LC–MS/MS. Assessment of their in vitro endocrine activity. Journal of Chromatography B, 936, 80-87. Yang, C., Lim, W., Bazer, F.W., & Song, G. (2018). Homosalate aggravates the invasion of human trophoblast cells as well as regulates intracellular signaling pathways including PI3K/AKT and MAPK pathways. Environmental Pollution, 243, 1263-1273. Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS). "Opinion on Homosalate." European Union, 2021. US Food and Drug Administration (FDA). "Sunscreen: How to Help Protect Your Skin from the Sun." FDA, FDA. US Food and Drug Administration. (n.d.). CFR - Code of Federal Regulations Title 21. Retrieved from https://www.fda.gov/drugs/understanding-over-counter-medicines/questions-and-answers-fda-posts-deemed-final-order-and-proposed-order-over-counter-sunscreen Health Canada. (2022). Draft: Guidance document - sunscreen monograph. Retrieved from https://www.canada.ca/content/dam/eccc/documents/pdf/pded/salicylates/Risk-management-scope-salicylates-group.pdf Benson, H. A. (2007). Sunscreens: efficacy, skin penetration, and toxicological aspects. In Dermatologic, Cosmeceutic, and Cosmetic Development (pp. 433-450). CRC Press.
Learn moreThe Right Care Routine for Your Skin Type: A Comprehensive Care and Product Guide
The Right Care Routine for Your Skin Type: A Comprehensive Care and Product Guide Basic Criteria and Importance of Determining Your Skin Type Correctly Choosing the right product: Each skin type has different needs. By knowing the answer to the question of how to understand your skin type, you can choose the right products for your skin and minimize the risk of adverse reactions. Effective facial care: Using products suitable for your skin type helps prevent skin problems and eliminate existing ones. Healthy and radiant skin: A care routine suitable for your skin type preserves the natural balance of your skin and makes it look healthy and radiant. Symptoms of Dry Skin: Feeling of tension Flaking Itching Matte appearance Proneness to wrinkles and fine lines Symptoms of Oily Skin: Shiny and oily appearance Enlarged pores Tendency to blackheads, whiteheads and acne formation Makeup runs easily Symptoms of Combination Skin: Oiliness in the T-zone • Dryness on the cheeks Enlarged pores in the T-zone Tendency to blackheads and acne formation in the T-zone Symptoms of Sensitive Skin: Redness Burning and stinging sensation Itching Dryness and flaking Predisposition to allergic reactions How to Perform Skin Analysis and Changing Needs Simple Skin Tests You Can Do at Home If you are wondering how to understand your skin type, there are a few simple tests you can easily apply at home. Determining Skin Type with Napkin Test Cleanse your face: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser to remove any makeup or dirt, and pat dry. Wait: Wait 30 minutes for your skin to regain its natural oil balance. Tissue test: Press a clean tissue against your face and check for oiliness, especially in your T-zone (forehead, nose, and chin). Results: If the tissue is dry: You may have dry skin. If the tissue has too much oil: You may have oily skin. If the tissue has oil only in the T-zone: You probably have combination skin. Understanding Skin Type with Mirror Test Cleanse your face: Wash your face with a gentle cleanser to remove any makeup or dirt, and pat dry. Look in the mirror: After 15-20 minutes, look in the mirror and examine the overall appearance of your skin. Results: If your skin looks tight and flaky: Dry skin If your skin is shiny and oily: Oily skin If your T-zone is shiny and your cheeks are normal: Combination skin If you have redness or irritation on your skin: Sensitive skin Skin Type Analysis Through Observation The simplest answer to the question of how to understand your skin type is to observe your skin regularly. Pay attention to how your skin behaves in daily life. If your skin is often stretched and flaky during the day: Dry skin If your skin starts to shine and your makeup runs during the day: Oily skin If you feel oily in your T-zone and dry on your cheeks: Combination skin If your skin gets red, itchy or irritated easily: Sensitive skin Professional Methods to Determine Skin Type In order to get the most accurate results on how to understand your skin type, it is recommended that you consult a dermatologist. Dermatologists can determine your skin type by examining your skin in detail and can make special care recommendations for you. Skin Analysis by Dermatologists Dermatologists use various methods to find answers to the question of how to understand skin type: Visual Inspection: They examine the overall appearance, texture, and tone of your skin. Medical History: They will ask about your skin problems, allergies, and medications you are taking. Skin Tests: When necessary, they can perform tests such as allergy tests and sebum production tests. Determining Skin Type with Wood's Light Wood's light is a type of ultraviolet (UV) light that makes different pigments and bacteria in the skin visible. Dermatologists can find a more detailed answer to the question of how to understand skin type by using Wood's light. Effect of Seasonal Changes on Skin Type During seasonal transitions, skin care is at least as important as your immunity. During seasonal transitions, the skin can lose its healthy appearance due to sudden changes in weather conditions. The changes in humidity and temperature levels during transitions disrupt the skin's moisture balance. As a result, problems such as oiliness, dryness and sensitivity occur depending on the skin type. Applying appropriate care to the skin's needs during seasonal transitions is of great importance to maintain skin health. It would be good for us to review seasonal skin care practices. Some of the Skin Symptoms of Weather Change: Dryness and Flaking: Changes in temperature and humidity disrupt the skin's moisture balance and cause dryness. Redness and Irritation: External factors such as cold weather and wind can cause redness and irritation. Skin Tension: With weather changes, the skin may lose its elasticity and a feeling of tension may occur. Acne and Oiliness: Increased humidity can cause the oil glands to work too much and cause acne. More Sensitive Skin: During seasonal transitions, the skin becomes more sensitive and more reactive to external factors. Common skin problems during seasonal transitions are as follows: Dryness and flaking: Especially in cold weather, the skin dries faster and flaking occurs. Pore enlargement: When the temperature increases, pores enlarge, which can lead to oil accumulation on the skin. Skin spots: As a result of exposure to sunlight, spots increase during seasonal changes. Skin sensitivity: Wind and sudden temperature changes can cause skin sensitization and irritation. How Should Skin Care Be Done During Seasonal Transitions? During seasonal transitions, skin care should be organized to help the skin adapt to changing weather conditions. Here are the basic steps to consider: Moisturizing: With the change in weather, the skin's need for moisture may increase. Therefore, it is important to prevent the skin from drying out by using more concentrated moisturizers. Use of Sunscreen: UV rays continue to affect the skin during the winter months. Gentle Cleansers: Instead of harsh products for skin cleansing, gentle cleansers that preserve the skin's natural oil balance should be preferred. Peeling: Peeling should be applied once or twice a week to cleanse the skin of dead cells. Regular Care: Creating a care routine appropriate for your skin type and following the routine helps keep the skin healthy. Customized Care Program and Product Selection for Dry Skin Dry skin requires more care and attention than other skin types. There are several reasons for this: Fewer Oil Glands: Dry skin has fewer oil glands than other skin types, so the skin retains less moisture. Moisture Loss: Dry skin is less resistant to moisture and loses moisture faster. Tension and Itching: Dry skin often feels tense and is prone to itching. Easy Sensitization: Dry skin is more sensitive to external factors and can be easily irritated. → When choosing the right cleaning products, paying attention to the following points will be beneficial for dry skin: Sensitive Formulas: It is important to choose cleansing products that are formulated for dry skin, taking into account the pH balance. These products cleanse the skin without drying it and maintain its moisture balance. Moisturizing Properties: Choosing those with moisturizing properties among cleaning products will help meet the moisture needs of dry skin. Fragrance-free products: Perfume or scented cleaning products can irritate dry skin. Therefore, it would be more appropriate to choose unscented or lightly scented products. → One of the most important steps for dry skin care is choosing the right moisturizer. Dry skin needs extra moisturizing and therefore choosing the right product is important. Moisturizers Containing Hyaluronic Acid: Ideal for dry skin, these moisturizers penetrate deeply into the skin and provide long-term moisturization. They also increase the skin's elasticity. Creams Containing Shea Butter or Cocoa Butter: These oils nourish and soften dry skin. They also prevent water loss by strengthening the skin barrier. Moisturizers Containing Glycolic Acid: For dry skin, it renews the skin by removing dead cells and provides moisture balance. It can also help reduce fine lines and wrinkles. → Points to consider when creating a daily routine for dry skin care: Gentle Cleansing: Mild cleansers that do not dry out dry skin should be preferred. Oil-based cleansers can be used to remove makeup. Water-based cleansers can dry out the skin, so they should be chosen carefully. Moisturizer Usage: Moisturizing is very important for dry skin. Light-textured, specially formulated moisturizers for dry skin should be preferred. It is necessary to apply moisturizer at least twice a day, morning and evening. Sun Protection: Sunscreen products should be used to protect against the harmful effects of the sun. Sunscreens suitable for dry skin with at least 30 SPF should be preferred. Oily Skin Care-Balancing Care Routine and Special Applications Oily skin type is one of the most common types. If a person cannot correctly identify their skin type, they may use the wrong care product and this will cause more harm than good. Therefore, this skin type should be well known for oily skin cleansing and care. If the sebum produced by the skin is more than necessary, this means that you have oily skin. It is quite easy to identify oily skin type. If the skin thickens, gains an uncomfortable shine, there is acne and pimple formation, lines and flaking occur on the skin, pores are enlarged, and the makeup you apply does not last long, you can easily understand that you have oily skin type. In addition, it is necessary to be careful with sunscreens used in oily skin care; how homosalate containing products are absorbed by the skin and their possible effects should be taken into consideration. The care routine required by oily skin can be summarized in four steps: cleansing the skin, balancing oil production, moisturizing the skin and preventing the appearance of shine. How to Clean Oily Skin? Cleansing the skin regularly and effectively makes oily skin look more refreshed and clean. Therefore, choosing a cleansing gel and foam for oily skin is very important. Toners play a big role in combating pore appearance, which is one of the biggest problems of oily skin. Toner selection for oily skin should be made in favor of products that soothe and tighten the skin. Toners are antiseptic lotions prepared using different formulas and ingredients. People with oily skin can use toners containing alcohol continuously or periodically. However, since using products with a high alcohol content continuously can dry out the skin, the moisturizing stage of the skin should never be neglected. How to Moisturize Oily Skin? Moisturizers that oily skin should use should be lightweight and low in oil. The skin tissue around your eyes is extremely sensitive and thin. Therefore, it is necessary to be more careful and careful when applying moisture to this area. Because the eye area reveals oiliness, shine, fatigue and signs of aging much more clearly than other areas of the face. If you wish, you can choose products that are suitable for use on all areas of the face or you can add moisturizers prepared only for the eye area to your skin care routine. Using Masks and Peelings for Oily Skin For oily skin, using peeling is very important. Your skin renews itself approximately every 24 hours. This renewal process causes dead cells to accumulate on the upper layer of your skin. When dead cells are not removed from the skin, the appearance of pores and the possibility of skin problems increase. Peeling products allow you to remove dead cells from your skin with the particles they contain. The vast majority of face masks prepared for oily skin are aimed at preventing blackhead formation, tightening the skin and purifying pores. You can accelerate the renewal process of your skin and perform a more effective skin cleansing with face masks that you can use 1-3 times a week. Sebum Control and Pore Care: Hormones can cause increased sebum production and oily skin. This situation can cause pores to form. Pores can become clogged with sebum buildup. Clogged pores can cause skin blemishes. This can lead to skin imperfections such as blackheads. Individuals who are at risk of having open and visible skin pores can eliminate the possibility of skin pore enlargement by making a few small changes in their lives. Excess oil, dirt and makeup residue should be removed by cleansing the skin regularly. Using oil-free, water-based sunscreen can help reduce collagen loss in the skin and prevent enlarged pores. In cases where the number of pores increases too much, professional skin care help should be sought. Comedogenic (pore-clogging) products that can clog pores and cause them to expand should be avoided. Before going out in the sun, you should definitely use a sunscreen suitable for your skin type. A diet rich in omega-3 fatty acids and antioxidants can help keep skin healthy. Creating a regular skin care routine that suits your skin type can prevent pores from becoming enlarged. Using products and treatment methods that are suitable for your skin and approved by experts will be the most effective way to manage your pores. People who have pore enlargement problems on their skin should first discuss these ailments with a dermatologist who is an expert in the field. After the causes of pore enlargement are determined after a detailed examination, products suitable for the skin can be determined and medical treatment can be arranged if necessary. If medical treatments do not yield results, pore enlargements can be reduced or completely eliminated with the following procedures; Chemical Peeling: It can help to achieve smoother and firmer skin by peeling off the top layer of the skin. Carbon peeling: After applying a black solution containing carbon particles, laser is applied. With regular applications, a significant reduction in pores is observed. The biggest advantage of the procedure is that it can be done in the summer months. Laser Treatments: Tightens skin and reduces the visibility of pores by encouraging collagen production. Precautions for Acne-Prone Skin Most acne-prone skin is caused by hormonal changes. These changes start during puberty, but can also occur during women's menstrual periods or pregnancy. It can also be caused by stress, fatigue, inappropriate skin care products, and some medical care. Acne-prone skin is also genetic. Acne care is one of the top priorities for skin health. Topical Care Techniques and Product Combinations for Combination Skin Combination skin type is a combination of two main skin types: oily and dry. There is a mix of oily and dry areas in different areas of the face. It is characterized by skin with an oily area, typically on the nose, chin, and forehead. A gentle cleanser is used morning and evening to remove excess oil and dirt from the skin's surface. After cleansing, a nourishing toner should be used to balance and refresh the skin. People with combination skin should not touch their faces too often. All skin types need moisture. Therefore, combination skin should also be moisturized frequently. Using non-comedogenic products creates a good effect in combination skin care. Facial Cleansing For Combination Skin You can start by choosing a gentle, water-soluble cleanser. Gel-based and slightly foaming cleansers work well for combination skin. Face washing should not be skipped during the day to prevent oil buildup. Faces with combination skin should be washed twice a day, morning and evening. The skin should be exfoliated at regular intervals with the right products. Moisturizer for Combination Skin Combination skin needs a non-oily, yet rich moisturizer. Oil-free and fragrance-free moisturizers do not trigger oil production. Products with hyaluronic acid and minerals that are rich in hydration are suitable for daily use. Some moisturizers help prevent acne. If the T-zone is not too oily and there is little dryness, the same moisturizer can be used on the entire face. It is important to avoid heavy creams that contain oil, as they will make the skin oily and clog pores. Choosing an oil-free, water-based lotion or gel will help maintain the skin’s health by creating adequate moisture balance. Different Approaches for T-Zone and Cheek Area Combination skin type is usually a skin type where the forehead, nose and chin area is oily while the cheeks are dry. If the oil glands on the face produce more sebum than normal, a shiny and oily appearance can occur. If combination skin care is not done correctly, pores can become clogged and unwanted results such as acne or blackheads can be seen. The most well-known feature of combination skin is that there are both oily and dry areas on the skin. While flaky skin can occur on the cheeks due to dryness, blackhead tendency, shiny appearance and enlarged pores are common conditions in oily areas. It can be difficult to find skin care products suitable for the entire face because the forehead, nose and chin are oily and the other parts are dry. Using only products developed for oily or dry skin in combination skin care will not provide satisfactory results. For your daily care routine, you should first choose a cleansing gel for combination skin. After the cleansing gel, you can use a toner for combination skin for freshness. After toner in your care routine, you can provide the moisture your skin needs with a moisturizer for combination skin. In addition, you can prevent the formation of blackheads by cleansing pores from accumulated dirt with a mask for combination skin that you can use 1-2 times a week. Using products specifically formulated for combination skin: Treat the T-zone like oily skin. The aim is to reduce the shiny and oily appearance and effectively combat excess sebum by providing a mattifying effect. Moisturize and relax areas where you feel tense. You should never use "peeling" treatments, which are too aggressive for the dry parts of the face and stimulate sebum production in the oily parts. Proper Use of Balancing Care Products When applying care products, first apply water-based products, then oil-based products; that is, first apply products such as tonic, mist, lotion, serum; then creams and oils. Before moving on to routine examples, let's briefly explain what all skin care products are used for and how they are used: Step 1: Cleansing: The first step of morning and evening skin care is cleansing. It is known that there is no need for cleansers in the morning. However, a well-cleansed skin increases the absorption of other products you will use. And the skin produces sebum at night, the pores close. You can clean your skin with a gentle cleanser in the morning. There is no need for a double-step cleansing in the morning. You can preferably use a face wash gel or oil cleanser. You can do a two-stage cleansing in the evening. First, you can use facial cleansing oil and then facial cleansing gel. Oil-based cleanser: Cleanses the skin of oil, oily products, make-up and sunscreen. Applied to dry skin by massaging with dry hands. Water-based cleanser; Cleans water-based products, dead skin and dirt from the skin. 2. Tonic; Tonics have more than one function depending on their content. They have properties such as moisturizing, purifying, soothing, sebum balancing, skin pH balancing. If there is dirt or residue left from cleansers on the skin, it cleans the pores deeply. They also increase the absorption of products such as serums and moisturizers. Thus, it prepares the skin for skin care products after cleansing. They are suitable for morning and evening use. It is recommended to use acidic tonics in the evening. Acidic toners are specifically designed to purify the skin. The purpose of non-acidic toners, which have moisturizing properties, is to refresh, soothe and moisturize the skin while preparing it for care. 3. Serum; Serums that contain active ingredients in high concentrations reach deeper layers of the skin than other care products thanks to their fine molecules and offer intensive care for different skin concerns from spots to wrinkles. You can use serums containing arbutin, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid during the day. You can use serums containing retinol, AHA, BHA in your evening care. If you are going to use more than one serum on top of each other, you can order them from less concentrated to more concentrated. Do not use ingredients such as AHA and retinol on the same day. 4. Cream products Products applied before creams allow the cream to be absorbed better. Creams create a protective barrier on the skin. Moisturizers are included in this group. Skin that is not moisturized well is left defenseless, wrinkles more quickly, becomes more prone to blemishes and acne. 5. Oil-Based Products (Serum/Cream): Since oils have a covering structure, they prevent absorption when another product is applied on top. Thanks to their fixing feature, they increase the effectiveness of your care routine by ensuring that your serum or cream is better absorbed. 6. Eye Contour Cream: You can apply it at the last stage of skin care. It is a completely oil-based balm.
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